Men's Bespoke Trouser Making- Belt Loop Style video series is out now!
Our latest follow up video series
“Men’s Bespoke Trouser making: Belt Loop Style" is finally here!
At The HTA, we have promised to bring Savile Row style bespoke tailoring to you in HD ‘how-to’ videos. After much consultation with present and former students, we have decided to lead with the belt loop plain fronts trousers.
*There will be a follow-up series in the future where we will make our signature brace-top/half band with pleats and turn up hems.
As requested, we have added side straps and buckles as well as inside brace buttons.
Like all our video series, we start off with the most commonly used draft, ‘The Straight Leg’ trouser draft. Notes are available in the description of the first episode. All notes found in these video series are taken from our book, “Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System”.
The cloth, linings and trimmings used in this series are taken from The HTA trimming packages available from Dugdale Brothers- trimming merchants to all of Savile Row.
For demonstration purposes, we have chosen a 36” waist trouser size, so when you are following the series it gives the closest representation to any size you may decide to make.
Trouser makers over time collect smaller pattern pieces which they use when trimming their trousers. These pattern pieces are often passed from master to apprentice. So in the spirit and traditions of Savile Row, we have made these same pattern pieces available to you (available in the description of the first episode - Drafting the Pattern).
As much as we wanted to stay true to the traditions of Savile Row and make purely bespoke trousers, we had to accept two things. The first, very few trouser makers still make pure bespoke and secondly our audience is made up of mostly novice tailors who might not yet posses the confidence and abilities to execute a 100% traditional bespoke garment just yet. So the prepping in this series does contain more fusing that one would expect. This doesn’t mean it isn’t bespoke, it simply means it isn’t traditional bespoke.
This series follows every aspect of trouser making from draft to cut, lay and inlays to lining the topsides, making the pockets and fly, to waistband and curtains. We have decided on the belt loop style, as I mentioned earlier, paired with slanted pockets and a double jetted back pocket. The reason I chose these styling details is that they are the easiest to do.
As some of you may know, I am my own favourite customer and will be making these trousers for my own wardrobe. I have never made myself a belt loop trouser before, but have done so for plenty of clients. One, in particular, is my father who I am sure will make an appearance at some point in these online courses.
Anyone can become a bespoke tailor. All you need is passion, patience and a ‘can do’ attitude and you will succeed.
My belief is, to be a Savile Row tailor is to be trained by a Savile Row tailor.
Welcome to the club and I hope you enjoy the series.
The Making of a Savile Row Coat video series
A step-by-step video series from Savile Row trained master tailor, Rory Duffy, on how to make a handcrafted coat from start to finish.
We have partnered with Dugdale Brothers in Huddersfield, England. Dugdales are well known as being student-friendly, allowing tours of their establishment and even offering sponsorships.
Together we have developed a trimming package that contains everything and more to produce one coat. I use the same pack in the video series, so my materials will match with yours.