pattern drafting for bespoke menswear
Whether you are a novice or a professional, you will learn everything you need to know to venture into the bespoke tailoring trade confident of success. Pattern drafting isn’t just about following a system. It has as much to do about assessing figures, studying posture and recognising the idiosyncrasies of the human form that make us all unique to one another. Each of the systems has a base from which to begin the draft and work from. This base is often misrepresented as ‘normal’ or ‘regular’. These conceptions must be put out of one's mind in order to become a successful pattern cutter. What may seem normal to one could be abnormal to another. The student will learn quickly when they understand their own posture and makeup, as that is the best platform for comparison. Rory developed stooping posture early in his career, combined with a sway back, his figure was one even experienced Savile Row cutters struggled to cut for. Once he successfully learned to cut and make for his own complex body, he had few issues with clients of a similar body type. Bespoke pattern cutters are rarely called upon to draft patterns for the likes of Abercrombie models. It’s the stooped, portly gent with sloping shoulders that requires the skills of a competent cutter and that is the focus of this pattern drafting course. Should you decide to take this pattern drafting course, you will learn how to assess a figure and draft patterns for trousers, waistcoat, coats, overcoats and tailcoats for portly, corpulent and athletic figures. Students attending the in-house course will be provided by the school with the necessary tools for the duration of their stay and given a copy of our book, Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear – the Imperial System. When you have finished your six weeks of training, this will mark the beginning of your education and not the end of it. With this in the mind, Rory offers all of his students a free mentorship of one year to help guide them in those first months of applying their newfound knowledge. Please have a read through our syllabus so you know what to expect when you sign up for our Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear course. At The HTA, students can opt to start the course online and complete it in-house or vice-versa. We also host introductory courses for beginners who wish to master the art of Savile Row tailoring.
Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear
Suitable for all levels - beginner through semi-professional
Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear is a great place to start your sartorial journey.
No matter how well a garment is made, if the patterns aren’t cut correctly and an appropriate fit isn’t achieved, fine stitching will not make up for its shortcomings.
In this course, you will learn everything you need to know to venture into the bespoke tailoring trade confident of success.
course & Accommodation fees
Full time six week course on set dates is €3650.00
To schedule an in-house one-to-one training course outside of the provided term dates is €750 per week. This additional charge is incurred due to the personalised and individual approach.
Students have the option to stay for as little as one week or for as long as four.
Course materials €185.00 - Subject to change
Accommodation is offered at €290 per week
An invoice will be sent for the full amount for the course of your choosing of which €500 is used to secure the student’s place on the course. The remaining amount is to be paid no later than one week before the course begins.
***All fees are non-refundable
All necessary tools are provided on loan for the student attending an in-house course.
A tailor's scaled L-square
A 12" French curve
A 24" French curve
A 24" hip curve
A grading ruler
An armhole shaper
Should you decide to purchase your own set of tools, packs sold on eBay include all these tools bar the 24" French curve which can be purchased separately.
The armhole shaper, also known as a 'Hand' tool is available to purchase through amazon.com
The purpose of this course is to arm the student with the knowledge they require to draft bespoke garments. Some students may progress quicker than others. It's not a race to the finish, it's about understanding and learning the techniques required so when the student has mastered the techniques they excel at pattern drafting.
A video series is made available to students taking the in-house pattern drafting course.
All students past and present can reach out to the course instructor for guidance under our one-year mentorship program.
All courses offered to students are also offered as one to one training
Introduction to tools, measurement chart and head units
Students will take turns measuring one another to become competent in assessing figures
Straight leg topside and undersides
Following lesson 2, the underside draft varies very little between each leg figuration
Straight leg draft topsides
The student will start with this draft and begin to memorise it as it is the base for all those that follow
Closed leg topside and undersides
Also known as knock knees, the closed leg is characterised as a figure with no spacing between the knees
Bow leg trousers and pigeon toe trousers
A bow leg figure has a spacing of four fingers or more between the knees. The pigeon toe figure has knock knees and a spacing between the heels.