Forum

I haven't posted much on here, as my process might be a little different.  I padded up a dress form to my dimensions, so I start with a paper pattern draft and make mock-ups on muslins.  My goal is to develop my own personal pattern library of basic blocks I can use to make myself or commission garments in the future.   I finally got around to making a waistcoat block and wanted to share my progress so far in fitting it.   I like to go ahead and make patterns for the linings, facing and pockets, so it's easier for me to layout in the future-- just adding additional inlays for different types of cloth. This is my first waistcoat, so do let me know your thoughts on any improvements I could make.  I'd love to different versions in the future of this block: shawl collar, double breasted and a more casual workwear style one.

The white dust fleck catch golden light Where cloth is cut with calm insight. The shears still sing their measured song. A rhythm steady, sharp, and long. In whispered stitch and silent weave, He shaped a line no eye could thieve. A cutter’s eye, exact and grand, Measures men with godly plan, Commits to paper a living form, Of tailored grace, a quiet storm. Canvas bowed beneath men's grace, As shoulders find their rightful place. Cloth that drapes over clean cut backs The markers mark and the tailors tacks. A conductor of a symphony, That blends with makers of every creed. At Henry Pooles he made his mark, But not with pen, nor shear nor chalk. As a steward of the golden mile, He worked in silence, and subtle style. Not one for fame, nor flash, nor praise, He honoured those old Row-built ways. Maintained the craft, the hand, the lore, Stood where great names had stood before. Now he departs the cutting floor, No longer hears the showroom door. But lines he drew and forms he knew Still shape the coats of something true. So raise a glass and bow your head, The master leaves, his work ahead. If cloth could speak or chalk could spell, They'd praise a man who cut so well. By Rory Duffy Dedicated to my colleague and mentor Philip Parker, former MD at Henry Poole & co. on his retirement from the tailoring trade.

Hi All I have reached the first fitting of what i am calling my hacking jacket. Three buttoned, angled pockets, ticket pocket, central vent. As you would have seen from my other post on Front Balance I have already made some adjustments before getting to this point. Following John W's direction I have slide the back up 3/4" to improve on the front balance. There is still a slight "A" slant at the front edge but really it's not as bad as the photo shows. Also the back is a little flatter than the photo shows. I am reasonably happy with it all but would be interested in any comments. Cheers Ken Buttoned. Dropped left has been accounted for (very clear against the mortar lines!). Sleeve lengths look ok considering left arm is lower than right Sleeve pitch looks good A few creases across back - Are these worth taking out by taking 1/4" each side of the CBL. Also not worked out the central vent yet. Any thought on that? What about the creasing at back of arm. is this just space to move?! Left sleeve looks good pitch except there is that slight indent to the front edge compared with the right. How do i get rid of that? Unbuttoned. slight "A" Shape - is this worth doing something about and if so, what? All comments gratefully received. Hoping to move on tomorrow ☺️ Cheers Ken