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Hi Rory and HTAers I have completes a Coat pattern based on my measurements. I have an erect posture and my right shoulder blade protrudes. I have made a toile and, though it is not fully edged, I can see that there are two diagonal lines from the top of the vent toward the neck. I have had a look at some books and this is suggesting a "stooped posture". Have i gone too far with correcting for the erect posture? The arm scye fits well under the arm pit. What is the correction for this? Is it providing say 3/8" at the neck of the shoulder seam back to nothing at the arm? The front looks good though Thanks

Hi Rory and HTAers I am doing a pattern and toile based on my dimensions (see another post to come). On the pattern point 24 to 22 is noted to be "apply back shoulder width 12-14" To me that means that I measure 12 to 14 in my case 6 3/8" and use the same measurement from point 22 until it crosses the line out from point 23 to give me 24. This means that the front seam and the back seam are the same length at 6 3/8". However, when i get to Episode 15 in the Coat video we remark the shoulder seams such that we measure the forepart shoulder seam length (12-14 on the pattern) and remark the back shoulder seam (24 to 22 on the pattern) to be this forepart dimension plus 3/4"to give some easy to the back shoulder. The extra coming out at the arm inlay. Should the pattern 24 to 22 be 12 to 14 plus 3/4" to match the making process? Cheers Ken

I have been thinking about a good definition of tailoring for many years, and it drives me nuts when the internet or a dictionary define tailoring as altering garments. What I'm looking for is for what Rory would consider tailoring. This is what I have come up with. Please give me your comments. Thanks Tailoring is the art of making garments with built-in internal structure, padding, interfacing, shaping using stitching and iron work, and customized fit, historically done by a tailor, often in wool, and often for men. The customized fit probably does not apply to all tailoring.