I haven't posted much on here, as my process might be a little different. I padded up a dress form to my dimensions, so I start with a paper pattern draft and make mock-ups on muslins. My goal is to develop my own personal pattern library of basic blocks I can use to make myself or commission garments in the future.
I finally got around to making a waistcoat block and wanted to share my progress so far in fitting it.
I like to go ahead and make patterns for the linings, facing and pockets, so it's easier for me to layout in the future-- just adding additional inlays for different types of cloth.
This is my first waistcoat, so do let me know your thoughts on any improvements I could make. I'd love to different versions in the future of this block: shawl collar, double breasted and a more casual workwear style one.
Hi, as this forum (mostly) revolves around Rory's pattern drafting system and his "handcrafting" video series, you will understand there's not too much we can elaborate on. By the looks of it, you did not follow Rory's pattern drafting video for the pattern? Aside from that: The muslin looks good so far. A few comments to possibly improve fit and look: 1) You could accentuate the waist more, as it looks fairly straight. Giving the side and center back seam a bit more of a curve (Without making it too tight!) will improve the silhouette. 2) The angles of the breast pockets differs from the angles of the lower pockets - you might want to make sure that:
a) the breast pockets are slanted, but the lower pockets are not
or
b) all pockets have the same angle 3) The bottom button will always remain unbuttoned. Usually, we go for 6 buttons, where 5 buttons are actually closed. The lowest button (and button hole) follows the curve of the front edge, but are more "for show". As your bottom button is put closer to the front edge, this looks off - it disturbs the look of the waist coat. 4) If I see it correctly, your top button is also put closer to the edge. You might want to adjust the front edge of the waistcoat, so the first 4 (5) buttons are in a straight line or at least can be placed at the same distance from the front edge - usually on the CFL.
5) Keep in mind, that the lenght of the waistcoat is usually dictated by the height of the trousers: The waistcoat should cover the waistband of the trousers, so no shirt will be shown.
Overall, I think you should really draft a pattern with Rory's system. The overall outcome will improve and it enables you to take care of dropped shoulders and other (typical) deviations, which a mannequin does not have.
Cheers JK