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Hi All

I have finished, what I have called, my Hacking Jacket and will post that later when I have the photos

However I am moving onto a linen suit. I have ordered the material from Baird McNutt as recommended by them Milltown Plain Weave 228gsm 6.7oz/yd. I am planning to half line it. with taped seams where visible. Now, the coats I have been making with Rory's video have had canvas, horsehair, and domette. This seems definitely over kill for a summer suit. What should I do?

1. Full or Half Canvas?

2. Just a 210g Hymo Canvas like Giove with no horse hair or domette. I would guess that this would lack the structure of the horsehair but will that be ok as an end product

3. The Giove Hymo and horse hair but tape the edges of the horsehair rather than the domette over

I just recovered from an nasty surprise, while preparing my sleeves and the armholes of my Tweed overcoat:

Originally, my armholes measured around 19 3/4" - after the first fitting and the subsequent modifications, this increased to 20 1/2".

Whilst measuring my armholes for Ep. 36 "prepping the sleeves", I measured 22 1/2" and 23 1/4", while my sleeves measured at 21".

Panic ensued! (I did have enough cloth left to recut the sleeves, but then I would have to tell my daughter she wouldn't get her Christmas dress...) I re-measured the armhole from seam to seam and realised the cloth had started stretching, especially where the cut was on the bias! During fitting, re-fitting and the finishing steps, the armholes and parts of the bodycanvas had slowly started to stretch.

I fixed it by using the "pulling" stitch around the complete armhole, regaining the lost fullness of the Tweed. Tweed is quite…