Hi All
I have reached the first fitting of what i am calling my hacking jacket. Three buttoned, angled pockets, ticket pocket, central vent. As you would have seen from my other post on Front Balance I have already made some adjustments before getting to this point. Following John W's direction I have slide the back up 3/4" to improve on the front balance. There is still a slight "A" slant at the front edge but really it's not as bad as the photo shows. Also the back is a little flatter than the photo shows. I am reasonably happy with it all but would be interested in any comments.
Cheers
Ken
All comments gratefully received. Hoping to move on tomorrow ☺️
Cheers
Ken
At a glance it looks like:
Half back measure is wrong, probably why your sleeves look a little big.
Shoulder slope is wrong.
Sleeve pitch is wrong.
Looks like a drop shoulder on left side has not been accounted for.
Coat needs a lot of work yet, a few more fittings at least.
Hi John
Thanks for that. I have checked the two half backs and they are identical. I have ripped the suit no so cant say of they where sewed to the side bodies differently but i think it is just the photo which isnt quite square to the back. Thanks for your suggestion for the back seam allowance - I'll have a look at that when i baste the sleeves in during the final fitting. Thanks for all the compliments, they help 😉
It's hard to tell from pictures because the camera may have taken the picture before you stopped moving.
I think one side of your back is wider, or somehow got sewn a little wider. If the sleeve is basted in you could widen the back seam allowance when basting it back in making the back narrower.
The collar looks very nice.
It is a nice looking coat.
Nice choice of cloth.
What I like about Roy's pattern system and making up method is the coats have a nice round appearance. Some tailors make bland flat coats.
Looks nice well done, garments always look better in person than they do on screen. If I waited until every suit was prefect before wearing it, I would have an empty wardrobe.
Thanks David. Yes I think you are right the photos do look worse than reality. When I put it on this morning the back looked fine so I think I’ve decided to leave that. A higher vent might be good. I’ll do some research on that soon. The fabric is great. My daughter found it in an little Italian fabric store. All wool quiet heavy but not too much. It is a houndstooth with alternating navy and forest green teeth. Looks great. Just a shame we are coming into spring here in Australia and so may have to wait until autumn to be warned 😄. Thanks for your comments. Ken
I'll leave the fitting part to the experts here, but there is one thing that sticks out to me: I think the vent could be a fair bit longer (start higher up) - all a matter of taste of course. I know you've said you haven't worked out the vent yet, so sorry if I'm too hasty here. I'm also just assuming it is opening up on the picture because there is no lining yet and it got caught, or is that a reccuring problem? Concerning the back, you'll probably get some more knowledgeable opinions very soon, but I think in the case of a hacking jacket a bit of extra width across the back (for mobility) can't hurt, since it's already more of a "utilitarian" piece. Doesn't look too out of place to me and it's probably even less noticeable in reality. We all know that infamous curse of things looking worse on photos... Also, let me just say, that is a lovely choice of cloth for this style of coat. I'm loving the silhouette the three-button create too. Can't wait to see this one finished!