the savile row style
There are of course many ways to make a waistcoat, but only one is handcraft. The HTA uses the method which is most traditional when facecloths (thick felt like fabric) were used in its construction. It is a close link to the coat and tailcoat in its development and is a great garment for the student to hone their hand sewing skills on before attempting the coat. The foreparts are almost completely made by hand. The only machine sewn stitches are in the dart and welt pockets, and just like any handcraft garment, the waistcoat is hand finished with top stitching and buttonholes. At The HTA, students can opt to start the course online and complete it in-house or vice-versa. We also host introductory courses for beginners who wish to master the art of Savile Row tailoring.
Waistcoat Making, The Savile Row Style
Suitable for levels 2 & 3 - novice through competent
course & Accommodation fees
Full time six week course on set dates is €3650.00
To schedule an in-house one-to-one training course outside of the provided term dates is €750 per week. This additional charge is incurred due to the personalised and individual approach.
Students have the option to stay for as little as one week or for as long as four.
Course materials €100.00 - Subject to change
Accommodation is offered at €290 per week
An invoice will be sent for the full amount for the course of your choosing of which €500 is used to secure the student’s place on the course. The remaining amount is to be paid no later than one week before the course begins.
***All fees are non-refundable
Dugdale Brothers offer all the trimmings required for every course.
Other tools such as thimbles, shears and needles are provided for student use for the duration of the course.
The student will have access to an industrial sewing machine, a height adjustable board and an industrial steam iron. Pressing equipment such as a tailor's ham, chest board and sleeve board will also be available for use.
Just like our handcrafted coat, Waistcoat Making, the Savile Row style, follows closely to the traditional style of making waistcoats.
Back when waistcoats where made from facecloth, seams that were too bulky to turn back were cross-stitched – a technique we have retained here for authenticity.
Within a few short classes, the student will refine their hand sewing skills and develop the same techniques used in both bespoke and handcraft coat making. The final step requires good machine sewing control to finish off the linings in one continuous stitch line. Felling, pick stitching and the hand-made buttonhole will complete your Savile Row waistcoat.
Introduction to tools, measurement chart and head units
Students will take turns measuring one another to become competent in assessing figures
Drafting the pattern
The student will draft a waistcoat pattern based off their measurements
Threading the sewing machine, setting the tension and machine sewing samples (straight stitch)
A detailed explanation of the use of an industrial sewing machine is given
Machine sewing matching seams
The student will develop much needed handling and control of the sewing machine ahead of making the garment
Sewing darts and parallel seams
Simple sewing challenges will be given to help develop confidence and control of the industrial sewing machine