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Savile Row Garments making

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Pick stitch technique

Hello again, just a question on pick stitching. I find it very hard to do a pick stitch in "one go" along edges, where there are four layers of cloth (two sides + two seams). I find I have to do the two sides of the stitch separately (like for the D tacks).


It's not to do with the strength required to pass the needle through (thimble works well for that!) but that I can't get the angle I need. Even when the edge is completely squashed, to go all the way through with a straight needle leaves the stitch more like 3/8" or 1/2" long, if that makes sense. I've bent quite a few needles trying to make it shorter!


Obviously it gets worse the thicker the cloth.


This slow technique produces a fine result but it also takes much longer than stitching in one go. Am I doing something wrong? Maybe holding the needle in the wrong way? Perhaps my cloth is all just too thick!


I'd be interested to know even if I'm just not alone - thanks in advance!



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Benjamin
Benjamin
Apr 11, 2022

I know what you mean here. Particularly now: I'm working on a heavy overcoat for my wife, and the cloth is seriously thick.


I find I only need to work 'through' to the other side on the corners. Along the main edges yes, the stitch does get a bit longer than I'd like. I tend to not go entirely through to the other side most of the time, and simply catch a few threads from the underside with the needle. I find this is sufficient to keep the edges in place.

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