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Savile Row Garments making
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Basting in Sleeve for first fitting
I've been struggling with basting the sleeve. Whenever I try to add the fullness so that the two back pitches match, I keep getting pleats. Does anyone have any tips for basting in the sleeves?
I measured the length of the armscye (23 13/16 Inches) and the sleeve cap (26 3/8 Inches) which gives 2 1/2 inches to ease in. Is this too much fullness to get in the sleeve?
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Curling at the cuffs
I'm fighting with the sleeve cuffs a bit as they will not stay straight after ironing. Anyone else having this issue?
Is there a trick to keep them looking straight?
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John W
Jan 27, 2024
Put a damp rag on it and put the hot iron it. Some cloths the bottom layer will shrink.
Otherwise, take the seam apart and hand sew it so it slightly rolls in. Don't want the roll noticeable to the untrained eye.
It's a smart looking coat.
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Silver Needle
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The back pitch is irrelevant. The front pitch dictates the hang of the sleeve. Drop the back pitch and pass the fullness underneath