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Savile Row Garments making

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Jeroen drafts a pattern - and fails at the first attempt!

=> I'll leave the post up "as is" for now. Scroll down to see where it all went wrong.


Finally I was able to start drafting my pattern, now all rulers have arrived. I am not completely done yet (obviously) - but this is up to the positioning of the pockets.

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Today is was able to complete the drawing.


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So, two things that bother me a bit:

1) Compared to what the video shows, my armhole seems to be completely "off". => YES - It is! 2) Point 13A is way further up the back sleeve seam.

One of the major things that might be responsible for these "misfits" might be my smaller head unit, I guess.


Questions: 1) The breast dart (?!) - under the lapel: What goal does it have? Is it for people with a more prominent breast?

2) Rory drew in the pocket flap for demo purposes - but I didn't see any measurements for it in the notes. Will these be mentioned later on? (I guessed at 2")

Oh well... @Rory Duffy - Master Tailor, and everybody else here, of course: Would love to read your thoughts so far! => Don't bother yet... I'll give yous a yell if my second attempt is up.

Notes to self (and possibly others too):

1) This paper is sh**e. Markers will smudge, pencil is better, but leaves smudges too - Get better paper next time!

2) Decent handwriting would be handy too - so you can decipher your own numbers. 3) Get yourself a plastic grader / ruler (Imperial system) - it'll save you a lot of time.

And last but not least: 4) STAY FOCUSED AND CHECK WHAT YOU ARE DOING! (It'll save you from drawing the pattern again!)

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Elly
Elly
Mar 04, 2021

Hi Jeroen it will take a lot of practice. I think Rory posted a PDF of the proportionate measures chart. It's a good idea to draft a lot of practice patterns using these standard measures then you can get a really good feel for what you are doing using standard sizes. Then you can practice your own measures and you'll have a better feel for what is "right". Don't worry about the paper, I've sometimes used the back of wrapping paper when I have run out. But a good sharp pencil is ideal. Roll your cuffs up because you will have gray hands and wrists for a while. It's good fun, you'll soon get into the flow of it. I found it hard to start with but now find it very relaxing and love getting lost in a draft. The neck cut (the dart that runs through the lapel) is to give extra shaping for a more developed chest. Don't be hard on yourself it's just practice, practice practice..... Practice.

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