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Savile Row Garments making

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Canvassing The Forepart

Hello all,


I've been plodding along on my coat and haven't had anymore questions for a while so hopefully I've been doing it correctly!


I'm now up to Episode 12 Canvassing The Forepart and I wanted to check that this looks right with you all before proceeding.


I have matched up the darts with those on the canvas, lined up the top button mark stitch to the notch, made sure the dart is inline with the shoulder point and the break line is laying in the right place.


I seem to have a lot of excess canvas on either side of the shoulder whereas Rory's shoulder on the armhole side meets the edge of the canvas. Is mine correct as it lines up with all the other points on the forepart or does it need some rejigging?


Thanks!



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Kunsthandwerk
Kunsthandwerk
Mar 16, 2021
Be careful to smooth [the excess cloth] when basting to the canvas...

You may be correct. In my jacket making class, we were instructed to keep smoothing down the wool as we basted. But she hasn't started yet, she's only aligning the pieces. The excess fabric at the waist level is definitely supposed to be there. I remember being told or reading that at this stage the wool on the canvas would not be completely flat despite what we might expect.


I wonder if the dart vanishing points could be flatter. The puckers are concerning. I was taught to cut open the dart almost to the dart point. A fairly large needle was threaded and inserted into the tunnel at the end of the dart eye side first. The wrong side of the dart was pressed. Then the needle was pulled out with the thread. Then the jacket was flipped and steam was applied on the right side but only to the vanishing point. The iron was hovered, it did not make direct contact with the cloth. I guess with a more delicate cloth one would use a press cloth. The wool I used, per the class recommendation, was a much sturdier, spongier cloth that could withstand more issues. 🤣

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