Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear
No matter how well a garment is made, if the pattern is not cut correctly and an appropriate fit is not achieved, then fine stitching will not make up for its shortcomings.
Pattern drafting is the place to start your sartorial journey. It will give you a sense of garment construction as well as learning about proportion and fit. Every garment maker who decided they first wanted to learn how to make, was confronted with the challenge of where to source the pattern. There is no one formula that suits every wearer.
The pattern is the foundation on which the garment is laid. Pattern cutting is often the most thankless task, but it is certainly the most important. When someone sees an ill fitting coat, they think, who cut that?. When someone sees a well fitted coat, they think who made that?
Too much emphasis is placed on the measurements when it is figuration that is foremost in a well fitting suit. Students are taught how to assess a figure so they can select the correct draft for the figure type they are presented with. A handcraft suit should allow room for expansion so if the wearer gains or loses a few pounds, the suit will continue to fit correctly.
Figuration is not governed by measurements alone - observation or rock of eye is applied to the pattern cutting process. Rory Duffy, the Master Tailor behind The Handcraft Tailor Academy, has written his own book on the subject. Students who sign up to the course will receive a complementary digital copy.
No tailor can succeed unless they can master the tape measure and hone their eye to the details of the human figure. Rory is often heard telling his students they must feast their eyes on the flesh of the figure. Use every opportunity to observe the natural figure of which they mean to clothe as they will not have the same opportunity with their client.
This course is available to take online as one-to-one training through live video calls which can be recorded for an enhanced learning experience.
Students have the option to start a course online and finish in-house.
Due to Covid-19, we are not holding in-house courses until further notice.
Stay healthy and stay safe!
This course is available to take in-house on The Handcraft Tailor Academy campus.
Students have the option to start a course in-house and finish online.
Last year I wanted to up my skill level and invest in my education. The HTA was recommended to me on a Facebook forum after a fruitless search for decent courses. It was the only place that I could learn online which suited my situation. I began with Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, followed by the Trouser Making and rounded off the year by taking the in-house Handcraft coat making.
My recorded lessons are a rich and valuable resource which I consult regularly to
consolidate my learning. The In House course lasted for six weeks; I could have taken some of this online had I wished. I had access to the fully equipped workshop 24/7 and the video series The Making of a Handcraft Coat so I could up-skill before the next lesson. It was a fantastic experience.
Situated in beautiful countryside I could be completely absorbed without distractions. The
accommodation was lovely and had everything I needed, including a board so I could work in my room if I wanted. Rory is a brilliant teacher and a fountain of knowledge. He’s really generous with his time and expertise. His family really looked after me and made my stay a wonderful experience.
Having a year’s mentorship following the course has meant that I am taking on jobs that I would previously have shied away from because I have access to help should I need it. Being a student of the HTA has been a game changer for me, I now have skills and confidence that I was lacking and a thirst to know more. I can’t recommend it enough.