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The Men's coat

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Ken WoodmanKen Woodman
Ken Woodman

Toile fitting on my measurements

Hi Rory and HTAers

I have completes a Coat pattern based on my measurements. I have an erect posture and my right shoulder blade protrudes. I have made a toile and, though it is not fully edged, I can see that there are two diagonal lines from the top of the vent toward the neck. I have had a look at some books and this is suggesting a "stooped posture". Have i gone too far with correcting for the erect posture? The arm scye fits well under the arm pit. What is the correction for this? Is it providing say 3/8" at the neck of the shoulder seam back to nothing at the arm? The front looks good though Thanks



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Ken Woodman
4 days ago

Hi Jeroen, I had another think about this overnight and remembered in my first coat Rory got me to take out some fabric right along the centre back seam. Thinking about this and the pinned toile version below it occurred to me that the creases where running more or less vertically from the shoulder blade to the vent (where the tension is released. So there was too much fabric vertically. So I ended up taking out 5/8 down from the waist to the hem and eased it in from the waist to the half back/shoulder blade where it was ok. This seems to have worked. see photo. I also remembered that in another post about the Pattern from Measurements that the seat dimension as 3/8" larger than it should have been and clearly this 5/8 out of the CB has cleared that away. The 5/8  at the waist will also work for my sway back which wasnt really accommodated in the measurements on the Pattern. So looking all good. Thanks for joining in with me on this discussion

Ken



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