The Art of Fitting ...

Hi all,

I am once again asking for your fitting support!

This is coat #2. Since the first, I altered the pattern fairly significantly, narrowing the back and adding the width to the forepart. I've also been more careful in keeping fullness in the chest when canvassing – I think I lost it to the lapel last time round. I think it's had a pretty positive effect, overall!

There really is quite a lot of fullness in the chest now. I'm not sure how to tell if it's too much. I suppose it's partly the English style?

There are a couple of things that are quite obvious to me:

One: there is too much length in the back at the top – I suppose this just means lowering the collar? EDIT: the collar is actually the right length, if you pull it up then it meets the shirt collar and the crease goes away. Seems like it just needs a bit of encouragement – how can I make it lift up more?

Two: The sleeve pitch needs to be brought down at the front a bit

Three: I'd say the coat is just a little long, particularly as I intend this to be worn more as a blazer than a suit coat

However, the reason I've left them so far is that the shoulder seam is sitting too far forward, I think. It's very much visible from the front. I wondered if this was a symptom of something harder to spot, and could also be causing the collar issue.

I also wondered if the waist could be taken in a little. Would appreciate everyone's opinions on this!

(By the way, the top button balance mark is a little off. Not sure how this happened, as the markstitches match up, and the pockets on both sides are the same distance from the neck point. However I've fixed the pockets now so I suppose I'll just have to move the top button on one side. Annoying as I've already cut the canvas.)

Thanks all for your help in advance.