Morning coat shell
Not strictly relating to the videos but hope to appeal to you all for help nonetheless!
I've drafted a pattern using the West end system:
I've made a shell in a cheap fabric (it's not poor quality, but was very discounted as it's a cut length of 1.5m – but is a wool Barathea) to assess the fit. It's surprisingly OK actually.
What I'd like though if possible is to get a nicer profile, something more like the normal men's coat (which I have managed to get there). I have a feeling it could be to do with the position and size of the dart. I'll attach a picture more like what I'm looking for. More waist suppression basically, so probably a bigger chest?
Here's the fit for now:
Ps I am aware morning coats are black – as I say, cheap!
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On first glance: I see a lot of excess cloth on the sides of the chest, down to the waist. That distorts the whole silhouette. How well is it fitting around the waist? Am I mistaken, or is it rather much there too? I'd start with taking off a lot at the sides, starting with 1/2" at the top, right below the first basting stitch on the outsides, curving in to ~ 1" at the chest line (bottom of scye), curving back to 1/2" at the waist and fading out to 0 above the hip. Don't cut anything yet, just baste it. Your armhole will become rather tight now, but at least you can see if you can achieve more of a silhouette.
And maybe, just to get a clearer view, baste / clean up the lapels a bit, so it won't steer your eyes away from the silhouette.
There's quite some work to be done there, but I think you're not doing bad at all!