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Paul

Handcraft Tailor

Golden Thimble

Canvassing a one piece front (CT01)

I've been wanted to try making a one piece front coat for w while and I thought this check cloth would be a good time to try.


I've noticed that there is more distortion to the front edge compared to a 2 piece front. When canvassing should the checks follow a straight line down? If so, the front dart will be curved.


Any tips before attempting this would be very much appreciated. Please advise.



Also, what are the benefits to making with a one piece front? I can understand less distortion below the cross pockets but anything else?


Thank you.

Paul





108 Views
Jeroen Keerl
Jeroen Keerl
06. Aug. 2025
  • As Rory explained in the first "Overcoat" session, pattern matching is a rather "new" phenomenon in bespoke garment making. He explained, that usually the main focus should be on horizontally matching the pattern. Trying to match patterns both horizontally AND vertically is just not possible, du to darts and cuts.

  • Making a two piece forepart is better to accomodate prominent features of a certain "clientèle"(portly / corpulent drafts). Single piece fore parts are easier to make. I don't see any real benefits, apart from that.

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