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Making of a coat series

Hey,


just finished the making of a coat series and there are some questions left...would be nice if you could help me for better understanding 🙂. I study fashion design in Germany and I am focused on tailoring, the knowledge about this subject in my university is very poor...


  1. What is the purpose of the stripe of lining which gets placed on the break line of the lapel?

  2. Why is the sleeve lining different than the body lining? Has it a different technical function? Or is it just a different design feature?

  3. What is the technical purpose of the bias tape which gets placed on the edge of the lapel?

  4. Why do you fold the edges of the upper collar over the under collar? Is there a technical purpose? (photo) I thought I saw in the video that one side of the edge is raw? Am i right?If yes, why?

  5. Why is the left forepart different to the right forepart? I think the shoulder and the armhole are on a different height...

  6. Cann you tell me on which parts of the coat remains some Inlay for future alterations?

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Paul Bertram
Paul Bertram
Sep 20, 2022

Thank you very much, Gerry !


Now it makes a lot more sense to me...


When you look at the photo.. I mean the blue part of the upper collar which gets folded over the under collar and sewn on.. In the video series the upper collar gets trimmed back and the remaining part folded over the under collar and gets stitched by hand...


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