Hello again everyone,
Here are some pictures from my latest fitting
Generally speaking I'm quite happy with the fit: it feels nice to wear. There seems to be a bit of asymmetry in the chest – not sure if that's a cutting issue or I've made a mistake in basting?
Obviously the sleeve pitch on the right hand side needs to be brought down a bit.
The main issue is the vents opening. I think my back balance is too long so I've pinned it in the above. Here it is unpinned:
But this doesn't seem to solve the vents.
Obviously I could just move the side seam round but not sure if this is "cheating"?!
Thanks as always
I've checked the position on the forepart (thought I might have transferred the wrong mark) – it is on the chest line, I guess I just don't really have much chest, my front balance is low and so it gets raised up. Do you have a recommendation for position of the OB in cases like this?
You're right about the out breast, I didn't notice that! Less out breast more out shoulder :s Oh well, I'll say I did it on purpose...
The cloth is actually heavy-ish, I hate to imagine how the coat would look with anything lighter :)
Cloth that weight just holds itself up
Steady improvement on the fit. Your out-breast is a little high though. Don't challenge yourselves too much and order heavier weight cloths. I made myself a shooting/ races jacket out of 12oz, no fittings required.
Ah. The canvas was binding the waist, I accidentally caught it in the side seam. All good, time to press on!
Could this be solved with a pressing?
I remembered I could release the back armhole by just opening up the side seam. This has good results:
The last remaining issue is the asymmetrical chest. The LHS is clearly larger! But I don't know why.
Ok, so I've rebasted with 1 1/2" taken off the back balance
Is this too much now?
Haven't added the sleeves yet as the armhole is now painfully high, but hoped to get your opinions on it before I start cutting away at fabric irreversibly. Guessing that's what's causing the large folds down the side of the back.
Alternatively, here it is with a whole 1 1/2" pinned out of the back. Rendering the back balance a mere 3"... Can this be correct?
Update: the vents close if the coat is unbuttoned. So I think I need to add 3/4" to the front edge (current overlap is zero, they butt against one another)
Admittedly they still gape a bit. If I hunch my shoulders they close if that help to diagnose the problem...
PS, no shoulder pads – can I get away with this? If not, what's the minimum I can use?