Thank you Rory! So if I understood this correctly, we need to manipulate the undersides with the iron because the seat would look messy. Or I guess in other words its to have the cloth fit closer to the b u m?

That looks beautiful Rory! It looks really well fit on him. From what I see it looks rather clean. If you don’t mind me asking why is manipulation needed on trousers? And how do you know when to apply it? Is it to make it more close to the calves or thighs? TBH I don’t really understand why it would be necessary.

This is a bit late and off-topic, but I really like your workshop setup lee!

Thanks Lee!

It might just be me, but could you link the video? I can't see it on the post.

Your video series that you did with Andrew was definitely what brought me interested into being a tailor. I always loved clothes, and one day it hit me that I wanted to make them. Your videos helped me realize that I didn't want to be just any clothes maker or home "sewer", you helped me realize I wanted to be a bespoke tailor. My gratitude for you I cannot put into words. The best I can say is, thank you so much Rory for getting me stared on my tailoring career!

That's an interesting way to put it, Rory. I did decide to look at some old fashion plates that include the front dart, and while I don't like it, there's definitely not anything wrong with it. It still looks kinda weird IMO, but as you said, each to their own.

Quick question what do you mean by "lapped shoulders"? Never heard of it but am interested.

May be a bit whiny but I severely hate front darts! I don't know how to say it, they just look… wrong. It's the same feeling I get when I see side bodies in coats (I never put side bodies in coats) it just feels, weird or unnatural. I know side body's are universal in the trade, but front darts aren't! At least side body's are "hidden" in the back!. If I saw any dart extending from the pockets I'd might as well paint a smiley face on the Mona Lisa. UGH!

Something to keep in mind is that Lenin is a bit hard to tailor than would be the case with wool.

Also is the left arm also like this?

Ok, Take what I say with a grain of salt as I'm no proffesional; Maybe try turning the sleeve inside and "curling" the cuff inwards with the iron. It could also be that the cuff is too "pointy", it's happened to me on a couple vest I've made where the point was too sharp and it started curling outwards. Even though vests are entirely different from cuffs, I think the same "science" is relevant. I say this because it seems like the cuff is slightly skewed towards the underarm.

Is the cloth linen or wool?

Thank you for helping me Mr. Duffy! :)

Sorry for the confusing wording Mr. Duffy (I've struggled put my thoughts into words). I was mostly confused because in most drafting systems, the half back is made 1/3 scale plus 2 inches (or back width plus 1/2 inch.). That is, 1/4 of an inch distributed on the side and back seam of the back part. So in other words 1/3 scale plus 1/2 in. Plus an additional 1/2 in for two seams. The back part on 0-6 is 1/3 scale plus 2 1/4. I thought this meant that it was the back plus 3/4 for two seams. But then I saw that the seam was only taken in the side seam and not the back seam, leaving and additional 3/8 in. So I was wondering if this addition was made for drape or shaping with the iron. Just to be clear I'm not saying your "doing it wrong", far from it. I was only curious because I'm not used to seeing the back being sewn "on the mark" :)

Reduce it at the underarm where the hind arm is (that is, the side of the underarm where the vent is).

This might be a bit "out there" for what your style may be, but since green appears to be your favorite color (as it's the main colors in both this and your business website), maybe have the main suiting cloth be in a shade of green, or if you want to be a little more subtle maybe have green lining inside. After all, it's not everyday you see a green color at a wedding. here's some interesting cloth and lining that you may like: Bottle Green Barathea | Formalwear: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/8732-racing-green-plain-blazer-cloth/colour/racing_green_plain_blazer_cloth/page/4/ Rich green twill | Needle ready: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/2851dug14198/colour/sunburst_rich_green_twill/page/4/ Brown with Green stripe | Royal Classic Vantage: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/3421-dug13659/colour/rcv_mid_grey_twill_with_thick_light_green_stripe/page/4/ Green Lining: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/search/product/t5368-cupro-bemberg-bottle-green/colour/cupro_bemberg_bottle_green/page/4/

I believe it’s done by piping the edges. I’ve never professionally done it before but I assume you get a length of ribbon or lining, and then sew it along the edges. Perhaps @Rory Duffy can help out with this.

So would this be kind of Ike MTM?

Thanks Rory (: