Thanks Jeroen! One more question I have is regarding the slant pocket; do you have any advice on how to deal with that? Because it seems that the lining is bulging when I try folding it over.

Well thats what I did so hopefully 11” is good! I brought it to a height I found comfortable, but I wanted to check with the community to be certain I wasn’t pulling the crotch too high up (in case there is a proportional spot to hold it). And yeah 1/2” isn’t anything but I was mostly foreseeing what could happen with a 13”+ rise and such, where the finished seatline could possibly increase anywhere from 2-3” more than it needs to.

Thanks David, I figured that was probably the case last night while comparing too. Maybe you are supposed to adjust the seat angle when the rise gets longer? I’ll try your method out if I find it an issue. The only caution I can think of is maybe the waistline getting too small with the amount and sizes darts? (Though if your talking about the angle and length of the darts then I can see that can work)

I’m assumig the reason the word “bespoke” hadn’t been used is likely that it was developed in Britain long after the Revolutionary War. Despite the trades jargon being practically the same as Britains’, the word “bespoke” seemed to be lost in the pond.

To make it MORE CONFUSING some American and Canadian tailors who are real bespoke handcraft tailors call themselves “custom tailors”; I am assuming that it is likely the word “bespoke” wasn’t in common use in the states until the latter decades of the 20th century. The reason I am guessing this is because of the CTDA (Custom Tailors & Designers Association) which was a group started in the 1800’s. Sometimes the word “custom” & “bespoke” was used like how “pants” and “trousers” are used. Despite clear differences in one country, the other is (unfortunately) rather poor in it’s distinctions.

Your coat reminds me of a cashmere Hickey Freeman overcoat (size 39 I think) that I was handed down from my Uncle; I had to do quite a lot of repairing as it was maybe twenty or so years old but the quality was remarkable! There was hand padded lapels on the inside too! All that to say that’s a really well-done overcoat! The little pop of orange on the inside is a pretty cool detailing!.

I know this is VERY late and out of place but I’d thought I should mention that when I wrote this I was practicing some Tailor & Cutter drafts to have a better understanding of English drafting systems, and it happened to be that the half back for my chest was smaller; it hadn’t occurred to me that people and coats were generally smaller back then so I’m sorry if this wasted anybody’s time. I’ve always been a big fan of your coat system due to how easy it is to follow and the use of the Fairgate/Lance tools, and the fact that I don’t have to cut a overlapping hip! (Which in my opinion was the biggest drawback to the T&C, as I don’t like tape!)

“I know as I have made this mistake before.” Your not alone either ;)

You just attach it to the fabric not the canvas. It’s the reason you pare away 1/4” on the canvas, as you take that seam there. Hope that helps!

Wow these look great! I’ve always been a “simp” for body-coats and top hat, but yet to make myself one. It’s great that you added photos because there is surprisingly a small amount of photos that give a in depth look at a properly made tailcoat. Looking forward to the video series on body-coats!

Thank you Rory! So if I understood this correctly, we need to manipulate the undersides with the iron because the seat would look messy. Or I guess in other words its to have the cloth fit closer to the b u m?

That looks beautiful Rory! It looks really well fit on him. From what I see it looks rather clean. If you don’t mind me asking why is manipulation needed on trousers? And how do you know when to apply it? Is it to make it more close to the calves or thighs? TBH I don’t really understand why it would be necessary.

This is a bit late and off-topic, but I really like your workshop setup lee!

Thanks Lee!

It might just be me, but could you link the video? I can't see it on the post.

Your video series that you did with Andrew was definitely what brought me interested into being a tailor. I always loved clothes, and one day it hit me that I wanted to make them. Your videos helped me realize that I didn't want to be just any clothes maker or home "sewer", you helped me realize I wanted to be a bespoke tailor. My gratitude for you I cannot put into words. The best I can say is, thank you so much Rory for getting me stared on my tailoring career!

That's an interesting way to put it, Rory. I did decide to look at some old fashion plates that include the front dart, and while I don't like it, there's definitely not anything wrong with it. It still looks kinda weird IMO, but as you said, each to their own.

Quick question what do you mean by "lapped shoulders"? Never heard of it but am interested.

May be a bit whiny but I severely hate front darts! I don't know how to say it, they just look… wrong. It's the same feeling I get when I see side bodies in coats (I never put side bodies in coats) it just feels, weird or unnatural. I know side body's are universal in the trade, but front darts aren't! At least side body's are "hidden" in the back!. If I saw any dart extending from the pockets I'd might as well paint a smiley face on the Mona Lisa. UGH!

Thank you for helping me Mr. Duffy! :)