For anyone looking again at this, I found using stiff gimp (rather than winding my own) made a big difference. Not sure why though!

Maybe a list of equipment required for the different courses and what's required for it. Eg Sewing machine – straight and zigzag only Sleeve board with a solid base Chest board or ham Hole punch for buttonholes Overlocker for trousers Perhaps also a rundown of the different kinds of threads used for different things and why. I've never actually used handsilk as it's too expensive for me (all coats a different colour on the whole!) But I think it's quite different to the machine stuff even if you wax the latter.

Only commenting to say that I have this issue too sometimes. Just an idea, could it be that the lining is too loose?

Hi Petter, you may find it helpful to look at this previous post of mine: https://www.handcrafttailor.com/forum/general-discussions/db-draft Of course that doesn't answer everything.

Hi Mark These are the trimming packages for the various garments: https://www.handcrafttailor.com/post/trimming-packages They correspond pretty well. If you stick the codes e.g. "T5420" into the Dugdales search bar, it'll take you to the page so you can identify what it is. Hope that helps! Robbie

Thanks!

My only comment would be that green cloth has quite a hunt coat connotation (that would be in a tailcoat rather than a morning coat, though they are obviously not completely unalike) – not sure if that's the case in Ireland though!

I thought I already made a comment on this but I can't see it – apologies if I'm duplicating! I think the low waist on Harry's looks terrible. Defeats the point of the whole garment, as the small of the back really is at the waist so it doesn't really work otherwise. Plus less flattering. For royal inspiration, my advice would be to stick to the "dandier" monarchs: Edward VII, Edward VIII, and Charles III (including when they were Prince of Wales). Indeed, the former is responsible for many sartorial traditions that last to this day.

Not Petersham, just standard grosgrain. It managed to shrink along the curve, although not completely flat, it looks fine. Ribbon was about 3/4" wide, and I wrapped it around the edge. Basted with silk so as not to leave a mark, then felled the edge on both sides. Took a while to fell 5m of ribbon, I can promise you! Trickiest part was the points of the lapels. Had to experiment a bit there, as a mitred join was never going to work – it was too slippery! In the end it was a bit of a fudge but looks ok.

That chest shape is spectacular!

This is a pic of the morning dress I made for a wedding I went to a couple of weeks ago (I'm on the left). Next to me is my friend who had his made on Savile Row. (Needless to say, the difference in price was appreciable!) Shows a couple of styles... His is obviously meant to last through more body changing than perhaps mine could last. But this was my first – and probably only – attempt at morning dress so I forgive my mistakes. However I do think I prefer the higher waist and the high back waist suppression. The 3/4 silhouette is just really cool IMO. Piping maybe a bit ostentatious but if it's good enough for the King, it's good enough for me! Inverting the suit sounds like a cool idea if you're the bridegroom. Would let you stand out! I think you're allowed to do anything if you make it yourself. That's how I excused the stylised suit, given it wasn't my own wedding.

Have you worked this out yet? What I find odd is that it didn't happen on the other seams – if it were the needle flexing, presumably it would? I guess there's a lot of fullness there, which would suggest a slipping issue over a flexing issue.

For when I cut the next pair – should I alter the topside draft as well? The fit is fine – more just for aesthetics (akin to widening the topside if the hem is widened on the underside)

Thanks Rory. This is with 1/2 taken out on the double. Did you mean pass some cloth up on the RHS as well? Still a few wrinkles, I wonder if the cloth is not completely matching or something... Feels a little unlikely that my two legs would have such different figuration

I've resewn it a few times – don't think it's a making issue Could one leg be more duck footed than the other? Is this common?

Thanks! I'm very glad you suggested this as I had started doing something similar, though only by 3/4" at the hem. I've just posted the result (but it needs to be approved by a moderator!)

At this point I think I'd rather redraft with the correct figuration than fit these – if I can salvage them from the new pattern then that would be a bonus

Yeah, I looked down and I was shocked! Because my knees don't touch really. If I adopt a pigeon toed stance, the creases go away – so it's definitely that. Should I angle the centre crease line?

I don't imagine it's going to be anything as simple as this, but – sometimes when sewing through multiple layers of linen (e.g. pocket welts) I have found that because the fabric is so hard/stiff the needle can fail to go through completely straight – so a straight stitch on the top side can come out wonky on the underside. Did you check both sides of the stitch were straight? Ps for what it's worth, I think the coat looks great!