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hand-sewing long, straight seams (Ex: centerback).
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Kunsthandwerk
Golden Thimble
Mar 02, 2022
I look forward to Rory's response, but here's what I observed: My teacher always worked on a flat surface. The seam line was first chalked on the wool with a ruler. He would start by basting in the seam allowance next to the sewing line. He used basting thread, which is made to break easily and be easily removed when the work is done. (Basting may be less necessary for professionals working a straight seam, but it was helpful for students.) He started with a large, visible basting knot, although some people prefer a couple of stitches taken on top of each other or some backstitches. He would use a longer needle than he used for permanent stitching and control the fabric with his fingers, although students could pin if they wanted to. Many wools are "grippy" and he would take advantage of that quality to keep the pieces together. He would take a couple of larger (3/8" to 1/2"?) stitches at a time and then would carefully pull the thread through, flattening the stitches. He would gently place his index finger on the hole from which the thread was pulled to control it. He would finish the line of basting with some backstitches. As for keeping the stitches straight, some people will use the thread a guide. They pull out a little in a straight line and then follow it. With the stitching line marked by chalk that's not necessary. With the seam basted, it was easy to control for the permanent stitching. He would use a shorter, finer needle. I've never seen a major seam sewn in a tailored garment with anything other than a backstitch and usually it was done by machine. The center back seam has to be strong. Another place that sometimes is hand stitched is the crotch. It's obvious why that would have to be strong. It's important not to place too much tension on the thread when sewing. One tailoring book I read described it as laying the stitch in. It helps to stand or sit on a stool in a relaxed, comfortable position with plenty of time to finish the work. As I don't sew that often, I usually spend a little time sewing some practice stitches on a sample of the wool I'll be using before turning to a garment.
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How to make a Ladies Jacket
In General Discussions
Finished coat / thinking about the next one
In Savile Row Garments making
Kunsthandwerk
Golden Thimble
Jun 21, 2021
Fray Check Crisped Mint Water
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Chest / Sleeve Board making your own
In General Discussions
Is this an okay stitch length and size for padding the lapel?
In Savile Row Garments making
Chest / Sleeve Board making your own
In General Discussions
Kunsthandwerk
Golden Thimble
Jun 07, 2021
@martinkuester71 That looks wonderful.
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Finished Coat
In Savile Row Garments making

Kunsthandwerk

Golden Thimble
+4
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