Thank you Rory! That was very useful. Do these jobs still exist now?

Thank you! I'll have a look. It was my Grandad who was a tailors trimmer in 1939 and the others were my great grandparents and the Underpressers were their parents. As a lot of my great grandparents family worked in different types of tailoring too I just refer to them all as ancestors as they are less related to me!

Thank you!

Ahh I see. Thank you so much for pointing that out. So I will Join the side seams then go back and turn up the back hem and tack the vents and then close the lining. Thanks again!

Thank you!

@Jeroen Keerl Thank you. Yes, I'm going to take in the sides and lower the armholes and then work out what to do with the too high back neck. Then I'll put the shoulder pads and sleeves back in and check it all over.

I meant to add that I think the neck is sitting too high at the back so this should be lowered? The shoulder pads are not in at this point.

Thanks Jeroen, I read your post and like you said I feel like I'm going around in circles at this point! I'll try the jacket back on without collar and sleeves now I have let out the neck by about 1/2" and pulled p the shoulder seams 1/2" towards to front at the armhole side and see if this has resolves any problems so far.

Hi Rory, Thank you for this. How would I go about completing the reshaping of the sleeve? I had dropped the front pitch 1/2" from where it was in the previous set of photos but are you meaning it needs to be dropped a further 1/2"? Thanks

I posted some more photos of the pattern pieces in a different post I believe.

I did the initial measurements a while ago so that may be why his chest measurement has changed slightly.

Okay. So my sleeves should have been 1/2" wider?

Thank you! That's good to know

Hello @Rory Duffy Using the ruler technique to find the cross back measurement with the jacket on it came to 14.74" including the 3/8". His half back measurement is 8 1/2" Point 0 to 4 on the sleeve width is 9". I measured him and drafted as a 36" chest. I should note that he is now measuring more at a 37" chest.

That's good to know, thank you. I did actually make up a toile before hand to look at the basic shape of it and didn't seem to have so many problems then but I didn't think this was an accurate way of testing it as it was just a single layer of calico and I wasn't entirely sure what I was looking for. Do you think I'll be able to fix some of the fit issues within it so it looks reasonably better? I'll look at the sleeve draft like you said and the cross back. Like you said I didn't expect it to be completely right but I would like to finish it so I can understand the whole making process.

Hi Rory, Thanks for the response. Oh no, I'd hoped after my initial complications with working out how to input my model's measurements I had then drafted correctly. I definitely thought the sleeves looked too narrow but am not sure how this happened. As mentioned to Jeroen above, my seam was quite far off the back pitch mark when basting the sleeves in but matched at the front pitch point. Thank you, I shall look back at my patterns and measurements tomorrow and let you know what I come across. Slightly overwhelmed by the amount of alterations needed as I was hoping to crack on with the coat now and get it finished for my deadline. Thanks again for your help.

Hello Jeroen, Thanks for the response. I did have trouble with the pitch point for the back of the sleeves. The seam was quite a way off meeting this pitch point but it did match the front pitch point which the video said was the priority. I'm pretty sure I drafted, cut and made up the sleeves the way they should have been but I could have made an error somewhere along the line that I didn't pick up on. I know what you mean though, its obviously gone wrongs somewhere. I did have a few drafting issues before inputting in my models measurements and redrafting but I got this checked after that stage. I'm not entirely sure what you mean about the shoulder pads but I did struggle to shift the angle so they sat along the run of the armhole in some places. Yes, I think it does need to be taken in at the sides above the waist as my model is slim but I'm not sure how to do this whilst sorting out the issues with the fit below the waist at the back. I'm pretty concerned about it as I was hoping to finish it entirely for my Dissertation deadline!