@Rory Duffy thank you

Hi, the simplest way to find your scale for trousers is to halve your seat measurement. So half of 45 is 22 1/2. There might be someone cleverer who can explain disproportionate scale, I'm still trying to get my head around it.

I don't know where you can find it but I think he explains how to create it in the video series.

Wow! All the details look great. I love the lapels. Really beautiful work. I think for the next one just play with the front balance a little. It looks like you might need a little extra length on the front and perhaps a little extra width across the back, but tiny amounts. It's a win for sure.

@martinkuester71 really nice work. Interesting method with the sawdust as well. They're really really smart.

@Robbie 😂 who needs the gym right? Just never take your coat off. I might start adding canvas to tshirts!

@Benjamin thank you. It has two darts and a chest cut. It also has a side body. I think you're right, a bit more shaping next time. I've lost a bit of weight since Christmas and I measured over a jumper so I could wear it over a jumper but I think I was a bit too generous. It's all experience though, I'm not too disappointed. I'm enjoying the process, it's much trickier than drafting for Men.

@martinkuester71 thanks Martin. The cloth is very forgiving.

https://youtu.be/pwC-L6whmqs

Also forgot to add Norah Waughs cut of men's clothes.

Hi Heather I've filled it in. I saw you were asking for research resources on another post. I can highly recommend all of Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion books. They'll give you insight into techniques used for doublets (the original forerunners of suits). Couture sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer is also a great book for construction and stitches. Dugdale Brothers were doing educational talks i think they have some videos on YouTube which could be really helpful and I just read that LIPA are hoping to do a costume symposium this year which covers a range of garment making which could also be useful. Good luck with your studies, it's been a tough old year.

It's just my best guess but I think the principle is the same no matter what system you have used. You don't need to add extra to the pattern itself, all the extra inlay for possible alterations and for attaching the under collar are added when you chalk it out on the cloth. Then there will be enough to secure your undercollar which is sewn round the neck line and secured under the lapel and with the bridal. The undercollar itself is a generic piece that you finish shaping once it's attached and you're happy with the position. So as far as my knowledge extends I think that what is already there is fine and inlay will make up the rest.

Hi Jeroen it will take a lot of practice. I think Rory posted a PDF of the proportionate measures chart. It's a good idea to draft a lot of practice patterns using these standard measures then you can get a really good feel for what you are doing using standard sizes. Then you can practice your own measures and you'll have a better feel for what is "right". Don't worry about the paper, I've sometimes used the back of wrapping paper when I have run out. But a good sharp pencil is ideal. Roll your cuffs up because you will have gray hands and wrists for a while. It's good fun, you'll soon get into the flow of it. I found it hard to start with but now find it very relaxing and love getting lost in a draft. The neck cut (the dart that runs through the lapel) is to give extra shaping for a more developed chest. Don't be hard on yourself it's just practice, practice practice..... Practice.

If you've followed Rory's drafting method then you don't need to add anything to the pattern. Watch the videos on striking the cloth where inlay is added. When you come to prepare for attaching the under collar you chalk in your sew lines and then use them to align the under collar. The under collar is felled on along the sew line so I think if I've remembered rightly then your 3/8 SA plus the small amount of inlay you add when you strike the pattern onto the cloth will give you everything you need.