You would need to wedge the canvas to create shape for the bust. It would be pointless to stop the canvas at the princess seam.

Canvas

Did you reduce your half neck measurment when you altered the back?

What is the actual fabric weight?

Thats why fittings exist... its part of tailoring.

That being said, your hair cloth is a little long on the fornt edge. You can slide it up a little and trim a touch off of it so it comes in line with your notch

Youre going to add fullness to the hair cloth which will bring it up a little and it all gets trimmed so it sits where its suppose to. Just keep it on the break line you marked and keep following along through the pad stitching video. everything looks how it should and it all the excess material gets trimmed down when youre actually attaching the canvas to the forepart.

Cant you just use your direct back measure and just add the aditional 13/16 to point 21 when drafting? Your armscye is calculated from point 6, everything else should work out if get the half chest (+ease) measure accurate. Its easy enough to add or remove a little from the front edge, shouldn't cause any problems.

Would love to take some courses but I just cant afford it at this time. I will continue to support you how i can. I appreciate everything you're doing, i've learned a lot already. Cheers.

Italian tailors I've listened to all use british drafting systems anyways. From what I gathered they often omit the domette, move front pocket mouth back a half incn, run the dart straight through to the bottom on the front panel and use smaller shoulder pads. They're ust trying to reinvent the wheel, it's good for a laugh.

just sew in an additional fork piece and keep it pants on grain

Ill send you an email today. You can send me over a sample page so i can see what you're looking for, I'll make a mock up for you, and if you're happy with it I can put it all together.

What kind of graphic design exactly?

Taitors, all of them. Waste of perfectly good wool dressing up those vile piles of human garbage.

Its chalk, just don't iron it into the fabric. you're over thinking it.

Ok great, thanks. I have zero usable inlay at the centerback seam across the blades, was trying to be economical with cloth when laying out. I'm going to try method C first and see if it works out, if not i can try shrinking that half inch out on the back to crooken it i guess, its a pretty loose weave tweed so maybe that will work? i might even have enough cloth left to re cut the back after I cut my pants and waistcoat if need be, ill find out soon enough. Hope you release that book of yours soon, i would love to read it. You can always release a second addition if you want to make any changes after the fact. There arent a lot of modern tailoring books out there. Cheers.

cant publish the reply i want it keeps saying spam. Will look into book, thx. Chest is 47.5

Ofered to make a lounge jacket for a family member who is about 6'2. The only garments i have made have been for myself, but i want some experience with actually fitting clothes on someone other than myself to better understanding the actual fitting process. Wasn't sure if i could just grade the ruler like that, thanks again.

I'm talking about point 12 on coat draft. I feel like people are talking about both stand and collar stand simultaneously in this thread, but i thought rory was reffering to (point 12) when saying he goes no more than 1".