Thanks Rory - I really appreciate that

LONG delay in anyone replying - YES you can remove the baste. I always hand stitch the sleeves on, I just find it easier and you can smooth out any creases as you go instead of sewing them in as I almost always used to. 2mm back stitch wiht waxed silk thread.

I think the lining worked out fantastic. No way I would have guessed it was a mistake you fixed.

Literally sat in one of the first pair of trousers I ever made. They are pretty bad, but I love them

Do you have an estimate of the price yet...?

I will defiantly be purchasing this - you mention it will be available in hardback, this is the option I would like [I will accompany it with the video as well] do yo have any estimation for the Hard Back availability time line?

Cool.

NO problem - an amazing fashion week this year, Maison Margella and Robert Wun were outstanding

If the video is not in youyr feed - here is the link https://youtu.be/MQW2ACp_RN0?si=ZnzCWFC3kq8z90Hb

I embeded the video - but if it is now showing for you - here is the link https://youtu.be/MQW2ACp_RN0?si=ZnzCWFC3kq8z90Hb Its all the fashion shows at Paris this year - but the interview where Rory is mentiond is at 33 minutes.

Do you apply this to the inside of the crease ort the outside...? I work wiht a lot of very heavy cloth and getting creases that stay is a big problem. I have just bought 102m of varius hand woven Harris Tweed roll ends and it it LOVELY but the crease lasts about 4 hours...

DECISION MADE - cos my friend was ridiculously kind and gave me half the £260 - Im buying a pair of hand forged in Sheffield Ernest Wright 13" Classic Tailors Shears...

 But I do have to wait for them to MAKE them which will be about 12 weeks.

THANK YOU - but actually it was a way simpler error...!!! QUOTE: UPDATE - this turned out to be a drafting error. I copped a pattern and pin wheeled the constriction line and not the lapel line... DOH

Thats really interesting actually - I just bought some 60's and 70's size super sharps for the sewing machine to see how they do on linings. Im normally using 90's or 100's for the heavy cloth I tend to sew and they often pull threads in the lining and make it look amature. Also I prefer machine zig zag'd canvases, they are thinner and stiffer. Cloth - there is a guy here in Bulgaria with 4 garrages full of random cloth he bought at bacrupsyt sale. Its €4 per meter and I got 15m of hand woven harris tweed along aoth about 60m or other tweeds.

They are cast so they would need braising wiht bras wire - there might be someone in my apartment block who can do that as most people here are trades people. The issue is - its at the very smallest point of the construction. There was a ***** in the casting for ever, but a drop onto tiled floor was just too much shock for it...

U knocked to gether an overcoat last week - it was my first wiht raglan sleeves and I had mno expectation of getting it right the first go so I mafe it from some 50/50 wool / nylon I have lods of. To my utter surprise it did work and I finished it, but like your trousers there is about 20 hand stitches in it.

If I made it 2" would that be way too much or do you. think thats a place to start...?

Unless we are talking at crossed purposes, the collar stand hight is the amount the collar stands UP the neck, proud of the shoulder and back of the jacket neck point. So a 1" colar stand will require about 1 1/4" of collar flap at the back to come down over the sewing seam of the melton fabric. SO a 1 3/4" stand wil require about 2" of flap at the back to cover this seam. I will tell you what is a really good idea - go to a throft store, second hand shop and buy an old jacket of reasonable quality and compleatly rip it apart, this is what I did, this way you can see the way parts interact with each other and why a part is the shape it is. ALSO - I finid Rory's undercollar dimentions to be too small [maybe I missunderstood them] I add about 2" to the length of the under collar cos its way easier to chop off the bit I dont need...

Yeah Rory seems to thing 1 3/4" is fine - I like a high collar but Ive never deared go that high, I ahve spent a lot of time in the gym so I have big traps even now [3 years wiht long covid] so I am interested to know how that turnd out. My scye depth is 8" on summer jackets adn 9" on winter ones, but I will probably add 1/2" to this in the future, its a bit TOO snug.