The Trousers

Hi Rory and all, I’d just like to ask about trouser drafting. I’ve seen multiple drafting systems. The topside draft stays relatively the same but the underside is where there are slight variants. Some systems widen the underside on both seams knee down(for example 2cm each side), where others only widen the inseam. I’d like to Ask what the difference will be in terms of fit.

Another question, for forward pleated trousers. Currently I use a “modified” version of Rory’s drafting method where I simply just incoorporate pleats directly into the draft (I do not really like the slash and spread method even though it’s the “simplest” to do). However this results in a reverse pleat draft where crease line bisects both knee and hem in half. However when I reverse the pleat as described by Rory in his book, the crease line no longer bisects knee in half.…