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The Men's coat
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Dealing with abnormally wide shoulders
(Edited in order to add the images I previously included in my comment. You can safely ignore that comment now.)
I have been running into some problems drafting a coat pattern for my figure. I am quite slim and at the same time have much wider shoulders than what would be proportional.
The measurements I am dealing with are a chest circumference of 82-83cm (~32 1/2") and a point to point measure of about 45cm (~17 3/4"), if that is of any help. If I draft the pattern exactly to the system (using only my chest size) I end up with shoulders that are way too narrow. Ignoring that for now, this is what the pattern looks like, if joined at the shoulder seams. The run of the armhole is a nice, smooth line:
If I now increase the shoulder width (I also need to square the shoulders a bit) I…
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First jacket fitting (attempting Florentine style)
Hi all,
I've used Rory's drafting system (with a few key changes) and the coatmaking video series to put together a fitting in the Florentine style; basically I'm trying to achieve a look similar to the jackets made by Liverano (e.g., see the brown jacket below, which is a Liverano jacket). For the canvas construction (pic attached), though, I've used an entirely different method from the video series, which was taught to me by an Italian tailor who also does his jackets in the Florentine style.
Very pleased with how it's coming along, although I would greatly appreciate any advice or feedback on the fit - in particular how to clean up the sides of the upper back.
I'll try to post more pics as the jacket progresses.
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Disproportionate 2" drop portly / corpulent draft issues
Hi.
(As usual: A few nights' sleep show me errors in my initial thoughts... Which is why I corrected this post!)
As threatened before: I would like to pick your brains regarding some issues I encountered during the first fitting yesterday:
My best mate's measurements: 72" height, 45" chest, 43" waist, 44" seat.
He is kind of bulky, but no pronounced chest - his belly starts at the sternum and continues down to the lower parts in a rather straight line - so it's not the rather typical "**** belly", which starts furter down, below the stomach and tends to be more rounded.
I drafted the pattern accordingly (2" drop portly), ending up with:
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Jeroen Keerl
1月06日
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I didn't review our video, but I did remember it, which is why I went for the corpulent adaptation 😊
Funny enough, He has rather small shoulders, 4 1/2 and 5" (L/R) but yes, after correction I am now at 3" slope. Have to make a note on that one, Cheers!
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Looking at your profile picture reminds me of something from a tailor and Cutter instructor said, 189x? A straight line is shorter than a covered line. The "average" person has a little curve in the back more curve in the front. Both horizontal and vertical. You have a flatter back than normal. Most people if not normal are the other way. Looking at one of your pictures of the front and back patterns taped at shoulder and looking at the armhole I would pull the neck part away and overlap the sleeve end until that part of the sleeve cut is straight. I tend to the think that the back piece armhole should be shorter. I think the front piece the top of the lapel and gorge and shoulder neck point need to be lengthen/higher.
Tailors chalk the pattern then chalk inlays, lets say 3/4 to and inch. After cutting thread mark the pattern chalked. Baste for the fitting. The educated guess, called the pattern, may be off. Because of inlays you can shift the cloth pieces up down left right to find the best place on the body for each piece to fit and make the person look grand. After a good fit the paper pattern pieces are changed. After fitting don't be hasty trimming away excess. You may need to change parts when finishing the other parts.
If you slide your profile picture to the edge of the screen your back touches first. The seat is further away. If this normal stance some other seams will be changed. Inlays are a blessing.
I'd rather be as skinny as you than what my body has accumulated. 🙂