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Pattern Drafting

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question from page 50 in the book Two-piece Front CT.04

After creating points 13, 13A & 14 there is a line of text that says

" Find point to point measure from pt0 - pt13a and double."


It doesn't say what this computation is used for?

Will it be used later?


It goes on to create points 15,16 etc.


What am I missing here?

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Hi Roy

When I did the course I figured that the "Find point to point measure from pt0 - pt13a and double meant that if you measured from Point 0 to 13a and doubled it this would give you the point to point from the body measurement. Though I am not sure why it isnt Point 0 to 13 minus a seam of 10mm and double. Rory may need to answer that

Daniel Godenzie
Daniel Godenzie

Drafting trousers for closed leg

Hello,

I was hoping someone could help me understand one thing about drafting for closed leg figurations.


So I understand you “move” the center front line closer towards the crotch point. But at the crotch line the distance between the crease line and the crotch point is shorter than to side seam.

Because of this. Does that mean when you press the trousers the inseam and outseam won’t match up and the crease won’t be in the centre of the trousers?


Thank in advance!

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Question about how a tailor drafts a pattern vs how a seamstress does.

When drafting a shirt or other general sewing items over the years I would work from a sloper I made that fits the body and add wearing ease to the pieces when I add a seam allowance. But it looks like tailoring systems are different? Going through Rory's book and videos I don't see ease mentioned. It also seems that tailors are not trying for an exact fit when cutting and prefer to fittings to get things correct?

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Rory answered my question and the patterns include the wearing ease! Next challenge for me is a jacket. Going for the the Two-piece Front

FREE Drafting Book

Hello all HTA Members,


As a gesture of goodwill and recognition, because Rory is so generous to all of us with his time, please E-mail me if you'd like a free copy of this wonderful, digital/.pdf OCR-scanned (fully translatable) drafting book.


designermenswear@neilsmacinnis.com


CUTTING FOR MEN’S TAILORING

System M. Müller & Son, Munich

17th Edition, 1965, completely revised, 334pp.


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