Alterations from block pattern draft:
1. Armhole dropped by 1/2 inch
2. Front balance dropped by 1/2 inch at neck point
Good afternoon Rory and forum members. My wife Gosia is pleased with the initial fitting although I am seeing some issues. I hope that you can comment on what needs to change to optimize the fit.
After trying on the jacket this morning we noticed that the shoulders at the neck points are not sitting flush. I think the shoulder angles need to squared up. Any thoughts?
I also wonder if her right side is dropping.
Any tips to guide me in the right direction would be very helpful.
As always I want to state that I'm not an expert at fitting coats but here are some things I noticed. I would say that she is dropping right and I think that the wrinkles at the right armhole (in pic 2, the back view) are caused of that. I also wonder if something is off with the front/back balance. The coat looks like its angled up at the front or is this just an illusion of the picture? I also think that the wrinkles of the sleeve are caused of the front pitch being too far forward. It perhaps needs so be moved back something like 1/4" or 3/8". But I would wait for Rory or someone else that has more experience to comment before remarking.
Armholes seems spot on. If there was an issue there you'd see a breaking at the waist line in the first front photo.
The creasing at the back under the armholes could also be insufficient shoulder angle. I feel like this is address in the series, but I'm not sure.
The creasing at the back under the armholes could also be insufficient shoulder angle. I feel like this is address in the series, but I'm not sure.
The sleeve pitch being to far forward was spot on.
Front length. The front angle is based on waist girth. Lengthening the front in this case is just "scratching it where it itches". It is a front balance issue and should be sorted from the shoulders.
When you notice gapping at the neck a good trick is to check and see if you can fit your hand inside under the neck point, if there's a space there it's shoulder angles. Also have a look and see if the collar to shirt collar distance is less at the neck point than it is at the centre back neck point i.e if there's more shirt collar at the back than the front. Remedy Square the shoulder angles at the neck point.
I realise I'm a little late to this party and many of the issues have been resolved. But sure here s my 2 cents.
Thanks Benjamin,
The problem has been corrected.
Lengthening the front hem fixed the balance issue as you suggested and
reducing the front balance at the neck point corrected the gap issue.
hope it translate well in the finished garment.
A little anxious about the sleeve going in but will reach out to forum members when I get there.
Thank you for your comments, I will make changes and proceed with the making.
I would say that the balance looks fine, but the coat needs to be lengthened at the front edge quite a lot. Sleeves could be pitched backwards more. I'd also suggest that the upper back might be a little too wide. I'd try taking it in slightly at this area just to see if it neatens things up behind the armscye (not too much or it won't be comfortable). Also, I would consider lengthening the sleeves slightly (this is a matter of personal preference though). Looks pretty good though.