Hello Rory and forum members, before I proceed with finishing I see a few issues I would like to correct.
How would I fix the creases in the sleeves at the front of the armholes? Do they need a bit more scooping?
Should I pickup back of the sleeve caps?
Any of your suggestion or advice would be very helpful.
Than you.
hay Man
I found an old book that i am now currently reading and referring and i thought it might help you with alteration and cutting in general. https://archive.org/details/sytnerartfitting1967
Hope it helps
Yikes, challenge accepted. I've got a lot of work to do.
Rory, Benjamin and forum member, happy holidays to you and your families.
All the best.
Paul
1/4 isn't enough. Take another 1/2" off the back shoulder points and deepen the sleeve by 1/2"
Rory and Benjamin
1. I dropped the right side by 1/4 inches for the low right shoulder.
2. Decreased the shoulder angles by 1/2 inch on the foreparts only due to square shoulders
3. Brought in the side seams by 1/4 inches to clean up the back
Looks like the creases disappear with arms raised
That's looking really good. Can I ask - did you end up taking in the back at all behind the armscyes? It looks a lot neater there than it did before. I'm just wondering how you fixed that. Or did you make an adjustment at the shoulder tip?
I suspect that the front sleeve distortion is probably due to lack of scoop (ie. undersleeve seam not hollow enough). However, it's pretty minimal. I wouldn't be surprised if you could rectify that by pressing the sleeve head down a little and gently ironing the sleeve down over a sleeve board. Back sleeve cap could probably be picked up a bit, but be careful because in my experience this may result in an uncomfortable sleeve (diagonal distance from front sleeve pitch to back pitch/elbow seam is crucial for comfort).
That being said, these are all minor points. I reckon you could finish it as-is and it would be great.
Did you drop the shoulder points from the last fitting? increase the shoulder angle?
The sleeves from the front look like they are short in depth. Have her hold her arms out off the coat and see if they disappear.