I'm sitting on a '3 button slim fit short style' for a client and the half back width specified as: "⅓ scale plus 2 inches" gives me 8 and 3/16".
The half back measurement of the client's back is 7 ⅞"
So, the half back by scale does not even include the ⅜" seam allowance, let alone ease.
As advised by Rory, I have measured the half back off the client's favourite suit, which is 8 ⅝". If I add a ⅜" seam, I get 9" for the draft.
Fine and dandy.
However, once I use the client's measurement, the draft's proportions are out of whack, cause the additional 13/16" come out of the forepart, specifically are now missing between pt. 20 and pt. 21
This makes me think I should rather go with the scale and adjust the back width later-on. But I'm at a loss how to go about it tbh. I cannot just add it on CB, neither on the line from pt. 5, which would disturb the run of the sleeve head, and I also cannot make the shoulders any wider.
Help? 😵💫
As reference, I'm working with the following set of measurements:
Scale = 18.5 4" Drop
Chest 37
Waist 33
Seat 40.5
Height 74
Head unit 9 ¼
Some great advice there.
I think what Anna is asking is when to use scale and when to use a direct half- back measurement.
Let's first compare the measurements
In the measurement chart the value given for a half back on a
37" chest is
8 1/8 plus 3/8" is 8 1/2"
On scale of 37" (18 1/2)
6 1/8" plus 2" is 8 1/8"
Ok so the difference there is style, a closer cut back on the 3 button slim fit short style
The clients half-back is
7 7/8" plus 3/8" is 8 1/4"
That is only 1/8" away from the close styled back.
If Anna decided she didn't want the back to be as close fitting she should of course go for the wider back of 8 1/2" which will give her an extra 1/4" of ease.
As for the favourites coat, at 9" (including seam) this answer is probably the easiest one. Are you making his favourite coat or the slim fit short style or a combination of the two?