Since this is the general discussion area, just wanted to introduce myself, as my hope is to make some good acquaintances via the forum. It’s always good to have others to share stories with, trade notes, and learn from others.
I have only been making garments for a couple of years now (I just turned 49 in November, so it was a fairly late start). I actually started originally with costumes. Unable to find a particular costume I was pleased with (I had initially ordered one, and although the construction was top notch, I was extremely disappointed with the details, and the lines of the it not running where they should, etc. So with zero experience (I had never even touched a sewing machine), I set out to make a better one. I completely self patterned it, transferring life long artistic skills from 2d to 3D, watched what felt like thousands of videos and read nearly as many blogs, and with a little help from my wife, created a very complicated costume (the trousers alone were made up of over 20 parts). And that was it, I was bitten by the bug.
After making a few others (mostly using altered, existing patterns), I suddenly one day decided that since I had always wanted a nice dressing gown, I would make one for myself. Again, using existing patterns with slight alterations, and being unable to decide between to different fabrics, I made myself two. After posting the finished results in a FB group, I was commissioned by a gentleman in Australia to make him a dressing gown. Since he was a a larger size and build, I finally turned to actual pattern drafting. Since he was on an entirely different, far away continent, I worked with making a muslin mockup, and numerous photos in different poses from many angles to then adapt the patterns to fit. Using techniques from Rory’s prior YouTube video series, I did the majority of this one using hand stitching, allowing me to produce a garment of quality like nothing I had previously done. The customer was so elated with the final garment, which naturally elated me as well. (The photo doesn’t do it justice, it is a 52 on 40 dress form)
For me, however, the ultimate is to be able to create and hand make a fine suit in the Savile Row tradition. I am confident with Rory’s excellent instruction that I can make this dream a reality.
I look forward to sharing stories and experiences with others in this forum, and hopefully making new acquaintances!
Devin Caster
Mate, that dressing gown is absolutely sensational. I want one now... Might have to put that on the list of projects...
Can I ask - how did you attach the piping along the edges? Is it piping with a 6-7mm seam, and you include it when stitching the lapel & facing together? Looks great.
I'd be very interested in some more photos, of this and other gowns/garments. Also pics of pattern pieces or construction process - anything, really. I must get around to making one of these and have absolutely no idea how to proceed...
Thank you, Benjamin, I REALLY appreciate it!
On the piping, it is very similar to taping on a coat lapel, except reverse so that just the piping itself turns out in the seam between the lapel and facing. So I basted it to the outer edge of the lapel (on the right side of the fabric, close to the piping, on the tape. Then when the facing is stitched to the lapel, and you turn it out, the piping should be on the outside of the seam. I then top stitched just behind the piping (hand stitched soft hand) to keep the edge crisp.
As for patterns, I essentially drafted it as a suit coat, and extended the length (with minor outward flare) to the customers requested length (I prefer them a bit longer, he wanted it a little shorter, roughly behind his knee). I wanted it to have a more tailored fit/look like a coat, so it looks a bit more formal than just a shapeless robe.
I do have some photos of the construction process, need to grab them from another app so I can post them here. Honestly, the most time consuming part is quilting the silk for the facing/cuffs/pocket tops. It is mundane, and at least for me I found it best to do each half of the facing separately (prior to cutting out the pattern) because the more “green” you have to cover (as I like to phrase it), the easier it become for the lines to begin curving, silk to start bunching, etc. The quilting is done with silk topping, linen bottom, with batting in between so the quilting can have dimension to it.
Outside of that, it is essentially the coat construction method minus the padding. It is fully lined. I’ll get the other photos dug up and added.
And again, thank you for the compliment. Means a lot.
Adding some more photos, along with additional notes for you, Benjamin.
On the pattern, it is 3 piece on the body, two fore parts and one back part. On the lining, however, the back part is in two parts to allow for pleating the center seam. There’s no darting on the fore parts, though this could add a little more shaping if desired. Waist comes in like the coat, in this case, since the belt wraps around the waist, avoids over gathering when the belt is tied. For the extra length, as I had mentioned, it does flare from the natural hip curve, since I designed this with no venting, need extra room around the legs.
Thanks so much for the extra information, Devin. Very helpful.
@Benjamin I neglected to post the other dressing gowns/robe pics. The first two I made for myself are not near the quality of the commissioned one I did, mostly due to the fact that they were entirely machined (no hand stitching), the one that was quilted was the first silk quilting I had done, so there was a lot of stitch pulling and redoing until the silk was nearly worn out, and the same one used a bagging approach for lining. I’ve learned much since then, so the commissioned one exceeded these vastly in quality and finish.
Other items I’ve done probably don’t really belong on this forum, as they are costumes (feel almost dirty posting something like that on a forum for finer clothing), but since you asked, I’ll put them up anyway.
This was the first article of clothing I ever made, and I did it by the seat of my pants (pun intended). It was very complex, made up of an undersuit (which the arms are attached to); a vest; and trousers. It uses a lot of shaped foam with fabric attached to it.
And I did this one by modifying a late Victorian era suit pattern (I’d like to redo this one someday using the newly learned padding techniques and such so it has a bit more of a proper “uniform” look to it):
Honestly I would say I’m over the costuming thing. Really want to focus on actual clothing now, especially suiting.
@Devin Caster Thanks for the extra pics. All very interesting. I think in particular the second costume seems like it might have some relevance to this forum. I never tried costuming myself. I came to tailoring through trying to do my own alterations, and it grew from there.
Just for interest's sake, I have here a couple of pictures of an old German draft for a men's dressing gown. It's from 'Der Zuschnitt fur die Damenschneiderei', which is actually a book of women's tailoring, but they include a few trivial men's garments in the volume which is dedicated to blouses, gowns, and undergarments. I haven't translated them yet, but thought you might find them interesting.
You are most welcome. Of course, I am no expert, and that is why I am here. This dressing gown is the finest garment I have made, and that is completely thanks to Rory’s YouTube series, which taught me proper hand stitching techniques and the like. I will be taking his pattern making class because I want to get that mastered, and will be working through the video series, though I will likely end up taking the other classes as well. I have some formal wear projects I would like to do, that I wouldn’t dare touch prior to learning all I can. And naturally, since the nicest suits I own are off the rack (higher end rack with alterations, but rack nonetheless), really want to make myself some fine handmade suits. :)