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    3. Edge finishes
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    beamgoes99.am
    Dec 6, 2020

    Edge finishes

    Hi as i watched the video maybe i missed a mention of any edge finishes used. serger zigzag do i need to finish any edges,if so which? Thank you in advance

    0
    2
    Rory Duffy
    Dec 9, 2020

    I think back in those days you could lease an over-locker and blind stitch.

    2
    Rory Duffy
    Dec 9, 2020

    Some coat makers will over-lock a coat if the cloth is hand woven or very loose.

    1
    Rory Duffy
    Dec 6, 2020

    Think I know what you are asking. Might be an idea to reference an episode so I give the correct advice. If it’s the edge tape, the front edge is seamed to the facing at a 1/4” and then turned in on itself requiring no further finishing.

    beamgoes99.am
    Dec 6, 2020

    For example the edges on the forepart fabric would you overlock them or the edges of fabric on the hem or any edges that you would overlock or finish to prevent fraying

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    alix01
    Dec 9, 2020

    @beamgoes99.am Only exposed seam allowances need to be overlocked to prevent fraying. The coat has a lining so everything is covered. In traditional tailoring only leg seams of trousers need to be overlocked.

    Kunsthandwerk
    Dec 9, 2020  ·  Edited: Dec 9, 2020

    @alix01 When I made a pair of higher-end, traditional trousers in a class we had the option of finishing the seam allowances with hand overcasting or machine overlocking. I tried both. The teacher told us that hand overcasting is a slow process even for people with experience. Whether to do it is a matter of taste. We did it in white basting thread; apparently, that is a look that some customers like.


    I don't know about bespoke tailoring, but in couture tailoring, hand overcasting sometimes is preferred because a machine overlocker stitch might create a visible ridge from the outside. Men's fabrics tend to be thicker so that might not be a consideration.

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