The Trousers

Hi All

I have been starting the trouser video and following the draft

My dimensions are

Waist 32 1/4"

Seat 39 3/4"

thus drop 7 1/2"

Scale 19 7/8"

1/4 seat -1/4 waist = 9 15/16" - 8 1/16" = 1 7/8"

3-3A came out as 1/4"

For a 5/8"angle 5-A comes out as 3/8"

Hip Shape was 3/8"

Dart was 7/8"

Equals 1 5/8" so I am 1/4" short

I took the 1/4" off pt 25 towards point 23 (A)

Then I drew down from that new Pt 25 to Pt14. The hip curve off pt 14 made no difference at the seat line length

When I come to the waist length check at the end of the video, it seems to be fine

However the seat check only gives me 41" for the 39 3/4" seat so 1 1/4" room not the 3" needed??

Two questions:

1. Am I supposed to join the new Pt 25 directly to Pt 14 as this brings the seat in or do I leave the seat point where it was on the original Pt 25 and curve it into the new Pt 25 somehow. That would give me an extra 1/4" x 2 = 1/2"

2. Where has the 3" gone? Just to confirm I measure on the top draft along the seat taking out 3/8" at each end. Then on the bottom draft I measure from the flyline to 3/8" in from the side seam

Top Draft over Bottom

And Bottom Draft on its own - cut out bits replaced alongside

In proportion-wise it looks to me that point 23 to 24 doesnt look long enough to get the seat wide enough. Hoewever if i make Pt 23 to 24 any wider then the waste wont be right??

Thanks

Ken