The Trousers

Hi everyone, I’m mainly self taught and still an amateur so please don’t mind the questions(and any future questions I have).

For this one, I’d just like to focus on trouser cutting, and more specifically pleated trouser cutting, I mainly use a pleated trouser draft I have modified, however I am intending to try out using old school drafting systems. I’ll attach an image of one of the drafting systems I intend to follow.

I have a few questions so I’ll label them

1) I’ve noticed on many trousermaking systems, the distance from the crease line to the fly tends to only be 1/6 scale, and if I’m just using my measurements, that’s about 8.6cm distance from fly to crease line(which in my opinion is a little short). Am I right to say that it’s possible for me to shift the pleat line back towards the side seam while maintaining…

Sorry if this has been asked already but does anybody have recommendations on how to cut the lining for pleated trousers? Do you cut it before you put in the pleats or do you put in the pleats beforehand? I’m just finding it a little tricky to figure out because of how the pleats “bulge” the cloth instead of laying flat like flat fronted.

Hi all! The trouser I drafted has a 37“ seat, 31” waist, and a 11” rise. Rory mentioned in the video series that measured it should be 3” more than the measured seat (in this case 40”) but when I measured it, it came out at 40 1/2. While its admittedly not too much of a difference there are two questions I have:

1. if there is a possible reason it came out 1/2” more and if it being 1/2” more could hypothetically affect the trousers, where could this excess (on the pattern) be reduced? I have seen many tailors let out at the seat line, but if the waist is correct do I take it on the side seam? Or do I just adjust the seat angle a little on point 21-20?
   

2. If it’s because of my rise being an 1” taller, does the finished seat-to-measured seat naturally increase when…

I'm trying to sew a pair of trousers for my son. The photos are from the first fitting. My son has gained a bit of weight from waist 36 to 36 5/8 and seat 41 3/8 to 42 1/2 inch.

I'm unsure whether simply letting out the side seams - for the tight waist - will provide sufficient room for the prominent seat, or if I need to adjust the seat angle or make additional alterations.

I'd be very grateful for any advice or suggestions.