Hello @Rory Duffy,
I've just found the waistcoat series (thank you so much for putting it up) and have decided to work through this before moving on to the coat series, as per your recommendation.
I have a question which relates equally to the waistcoat and to the coat drafting,I believe. What alterations to the pattern would you recommend for a large chest measurement, and comparatively small waist measurement, which is largely caused by a triangular back?
I have a 53" chest measurement and a 37" waist measurement (when I haven't overindulged at dinner). This is largely due to my back, but I also have a prominent chest that tends to cause unsightly gaping along the lapel on coats when buttoned up.
I've only just started watching the series, so I haven't cut any cloth, and it may be that it is covered in your system. But, I would be surprised if there aren't some requirements for extra darts or the like...
I've attached some photos so that you can see what I mean.
Thanks again for taking the time to create these great video series, it's really appreciated.
All the best



From a Tailor and Cutter book about using Block Patterns.
It describes how to change a pattern for someone like you.
This just one section of the book.
To draft a pattern I need
Height
Neck
Chest
Waist
Trouser waist
Side-seam
Inside leg
Point to point
Cross back (Half back)
If you need any tips check out my video on measuring on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/LILVlmLFQ0g?si=rZ0BeIwlrTxbPslP
Hi John,
Thanks for reminding me of this one.
What would you all think of covering this in the next end of month monthly zoom meeting.
If Kwan, the original poster can get back to me with a full complement of measurements, I'm sure I can figure it out.
If I don't get a response from Kwan on here , I may have to email him.
Hi Kwan,
Have you not done anything?
There are other pattern systems on the internet. Some of the measurements are different. And the pattern method is drawn different. Never the less you end up with a suit kind of pattern. The front edge style can be drawn different. The front edge style can be determined at one of the fittings. Many coat styles are decided that way. If you look at inlays (extra cloth for fitting) your chest is larger than average and there are two inlays for larger chest. One on the front edge and the other involving the armhole. This shows that the pattern in that region can be wider. And the purpose of darts and fish's is to bring the size narrower to fit another part of the body. Which would be for a coat the chest size down to waist size. Some bulging bellies why put a breast dart in? But you would need larger than normal. Some tailors don't cut breast darts. Some of these darts are figured at the fitting, and then cut. Since bodies are different where does the dart go. Should it be closer to the front edge? Or, closer to the armhole? And, how wide should it be sewn.
Some other thinking here. Your chest circumference the pattern needs to be adapted. Some people need a wider back, and to keep the circumference the front is made narrower. Inlay for that, too. You on the other hand have a large chest. So a wider front and a narrower back at chest level. It also means the front neck is raised and the back is shorter. When you draw the pattern these are things to wonder about when adjusting the pattern. Since tailors don't really know if the pattern is correct they have inlays for extra corrections at the fittings. This is normal. Roy has a very nice coat style. But some of the measurements are confusing you. If you look up Clarence Poulin he has a simple pattern system. After you draw it, or another one, you might be able to shape it more like Roy's.
One other advice. Buy the cheapest cloth at a local fabric store for trial fittings, to work out the details. If you are short on cloth you can add to it by just sewing it on extra. Some tailors make the "real" pattern after the fitting from cheap cloth. Otherwise, it can gets very expensive.
Another consideration. Large muscles require extra room.
Wondering what became of this?
I don't have a system for that. My clients were all fat men. I would have to give it some thought. Post all your measurements and if I find some time I will give it a go
Yeah I'm ill at the moment. Oops.
You're properly stacked i will give you that. Your measurements fall within the 6" drop so in theory you could follow the same system as in the video series. You'll be smaller through the seat I'd say which makes things more complicated. Square Pt 18 straight down from the waist and take 1/2" off each side of the side body on the side body seam.
The other thing to add, is that my limbs are disproportionately long for my height (for example, my arm span is 6' 9"), or conversely, my torso is short for my height. So, is there a systematic way to adjust if the head units aren't quite right?