I am just starting here, and I'm ready to do the drafting of the waistcoat. However to me the video of how to do it is extremely hard to follow. I can't make out what rory is saying most of the time. Probably because i'm slightly hard of hearing, but also because of the language barrier. So i wonder, is there a transcript of the lesson? failing that, is there someplace that Rory explains step by step what measurements to take, how to take them, and how each measurement is then added to the bottom of the pattern paper before he gets going with the various steps? I've looked around the forum but can't seem to find any info on this. apologies if i've not found something already done. thanks.
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As for trousers.
The trouser waist is taken close above the trouser waistband.
Fat can compress up to 2".
The side-seam is taken from the top of the waistband to the heal of the shoe.
The inside leg is from the crotch to the heal of the shoe. Subtract inside leg from side seam for the rise.
No matter which in-house course you take. The first lesson on the first day is taking measurements. It's a great way to get the whole class working together.
I would usually start with the full height. This measurement is an integral part of the drafting system for coats and waistcoats.
Next is the neck circumstance. The measurement chart offers a half neck based on this measure.
The chest measure is taken low at the front over the chest prominence and high at the back over the blades. So it's taken at an angle. Half the chest is the scale.
The waist is taken just about the navel. Subtract the waist from the chest to find the 'Drop'.
Standing side on to the figure and take the seat measure over the widest part of the buttocks. On a regular/ athletic figure, the seat is one inch over the chest.
The point to point is from the shoulder bone to shoulder bone. This measurement is typically 10" over the half back.
The half back is taken from were the arm meets the back and then halved. If this measurement is say 8 1/2" the point to point would be 18 1/2".
The free videos of the mens coat program shows you measurment taking :-D