after finishing the competition waistcoat, I want to make one for myself.
I have made a toile and adjusted everything to fit ~ 99% correctly.
I made some notes on the original pattern I drafted and would like to draft it anew, but with the corrections already integrated.
So far, so good:
- The additional 3/8" on the front shoulders is easy to do
- Squaring the shoulders 1/2" (ie. dropping the neckline) too
What does give me a bit of a headache is the lower back:
I have a hollow lower back and - due to this - a bit of a protruding lower belly.
With the toile, I found out I need to take in 1" at roughly at heighth of the vents.
From the waistline upwards, everythings seems quite fine: I could take in a 1/4" max on both sides at the chestline (Which I will not do yet, as the toile hasn't got canvas or linings - that might get too tight)
How should I incorporate the 1" intake at the "vent line"?
Add 1/2" to point 17 (Waist suppression at the back) (3/8 + 1/2 = 7/8") only and then draw a rather dramatic curve between 16, 18 and ~ 1/4 of the way up to 15), so the intake will not go too far up?
Add 1/4" (3/8 + 1/4 = 5/8") to point 17 and to point 24 (back waist suppression - VWS would be 1 1/4 + 1/4 = 1 1/2") - in which case both the curves from 16 to 17 to 15 and 25, 24 and ~ quarter of the way up to 1 would be less "dramatic".