Hi everyone, I’m mainly self taught and still an amateur so please don’t mind the questions(and any future questions I have).
For this one, I’d just like to focus on trouser cutting, and more specifically pleated trouser cutting, I mainly use a pleated trouser draft I have modified, however I am intending to try out using old school drafting systems. I’ll attach an image of one of the drafting systems I intend to follow.
I have a few questions so I’ll label them
1) I’ve noticed on many trousermaking systems, the distance from the crease line to the fly tends to only be 1/6 scale, and if I’m just using my measurements, that’s about 8.6cm distance from fly to crease line(which in my opinion is a little short). Am I right to say that it’s possible for me to shift the pleat line back towards the side seam while maintaining the crease line splitting knee and hem line in half approximately(I know crease line doesn’t bisect knee line perfectly in half)? So technically just transversing the top half(from crotch line up) so that crease line is shifted further away from centre front, and then just blending out the side seam.
2) Again, from old drafting systems, while there has been no written confirmation, from my eye, it seems like they only add about 1/3 total pleat width to the crotch line for pleat allowance. So I just wanted to ask for a confirmation if this is true, that only 1/3 pleat width will be required for pleat allowance. For example, if I wanted to add a 3” single pleat (so 1.5” deep), do I just add 1/3” to crotch for pleat allowance?
3) If I intend to make a double pleat trouser, is it required to add any additional allowance to hips and crotch? I know off some drafts that just add that allowance to the waist, but I was just curious on how that would affect the pleat closing and if there’s any ease allowance needed. Just an example(I’ll keep the numbers easy), if let’s say I wanted to add a 2” main pleat (1” deep) and a 1” second pleat (0.5” deep), does that just mean I need to add 1/3 of total pleat width to crotch? So 1” added. Or do I have to add only 1/3 width of the main central pleat, so 2/3”.
I hope yall understand my questions, and thank you to anyone who can help. Here’s one of the draft I am planning to follow
If you want 1 1/2 inch pleats the total cloth for the pleat is 3 inches. If you want, further along the waist, let's say 1 inch pleat, the amount of cloth to make it is 2 inches.
That pattern will make nice trousers.