Hi all!
The trouser I drafted has a 37“ seat, 31” waist, and a 11” rise. Rory mentioned in the video series that measured it should be 3” more than the measured seat (in this case 40”) but when I measured it, it came out at 40 1/2. While its admittedly not too much of a difference there are two questions I have:
if there is a possible reason it came out 1/2” more and if it being 1/2” more could hypothetically affect the trousers, where could this excess (on the pattern) be reduced? I have seen many tailors let out at the seat line, but if the waist is correct do I take it on the side seam? Or do I just adjust the seat angle a little on point 21-20?
If it’s because of my rise being an 1” taller, does the finished seat-to-measured seat naturally increase when the rise gets taller?
Also if I want my waistband to hit directly on my navel/hip **** line, is 11” a correct or erroneous rise for my height (I’m 5’10)?
Of course, I’m going to have a fitting so these points could possibly get corrected but I did want to ask in case I’m making an error.
Thanks!
1) Don't think too much about 1/2" around the seat. If absolutely necessary, you can slightly alter the curve of the outer seam on the front part.
2) You rise is easily measured by using your tailor's square. Stick it between your legs at a right angle and measure the exact height upwards to your navel. Subtract 1 1/4" (the with of your square!) and that's your rise.
Alternatively, use a tape measure and measure from navel to the ground (straight down) and subtract the inseam from that measurement.
Either of these values is your rise, point 0 to 4. (OTOH)