Hi all!
The trouser I drafted has a 37“ seat, 31” waist, and a 11” rise. Rory mentioned in the video series that measured it should be 3” more than the measured seat (in this case 40”) but when I measured it, it came out at 40 1/2. While its admittedly not too much of a difference there are two questions I have:
if there is a possible reason it came out 1/2” more and if it being 1/2” more could hypothetically affect the trousers, where could this excess (on the pattern) be reduced? I have seen many tailors let out at the seat line, but if the waist is correct do I take it on the side seam? Or do I just adjust the seat angle a little on point 21-20?
If it’s because of my rise being an 1” taller, does the finished seat-to-measured seat naturally increase when the rise gets taller?
Also if I want my waistband to hit directly on my navel/hip **** line, is 11” a correct or erroneous rise for my height (I’m 5’10)?
Of course, I’m going to have a fitting so these points could possibly get corrected but I did want to ask in case I’m making an error.
Thanks!
1) Don't think too much about 1/2" around the seat. If absolutely necessary, you can slightly alter the curve of the outer seam on the front part.
2) You rise is easily measured by using your tailor's square. Stick it between your legs at a right angle and measure the exact height upwards to your navel. Subtract 1 1/4" (the with of your square!) and that's your rise.
Alternatively, use a tape measure and measure from navel to the ground (straight down) and subtract the inseam from that measurement.
Either of these values is your rise, point 0 to 4. (OTOH)
Not really much of an answer, but regarding your second question, I noticed a similar thing playing around with different rises (is that the plural?). I think this is due to connecting point 24 to point 14; if point 24 shifts upwards the resulting line (meaning the side seam) hits the seat line in a different location. Although, by that logic, a higher rise should mean slightly less circumference across the seat... Naturally, the position of point 14 (width at the knee) plays the same role, if that shifts to the outside, the side seam also crosses the seat line more to the outside. The way in which I dealt with it (which I don't claim to be correct), is to play around with the size and amount of darts in the waist seam. In your case you might try reducing the amount you are adding for the darts, thus shifting point 24 and with it the side seam more inward, thus slightly reducing the amount over the seat - I hope I don't sound too confusing. No idea if that is a good way of doing things - looking forward to hearing an experts opinion on this and your other questions.