Hi Rory and HTAers
I have completes a Coat pattern based on my measurements. I have an erect posture and my right shoulder blade protrudes. I have made a toile and, though it is not fully edged, I can see that there are two diagonal lines from the top of the vent toward the neck. I have had a look at some books and this is suggesting a "stooped posture". Have i gone too far with correcting for the erect posture? The arm scye fits well under the arm pit. What is the correction for this? Is it providing say 3/8" at the neck of the shoulder seam back to nothing at the arm? The front looks good though Thanks
Hi Jeroen, I had another think about this overnight and remembered in my first coat Rory got me to take out some fabric right along the centre back seam. Thinking about this and the pinned toile version below it occurred to me that the creases where running more or less vertically from the shoulder blade to the vent (where the tension is released. So there was too much fabric vertically. So I ended up taking out 5/8 down from the waist to the hem and eased it in from the waist to the half back/shoulder blade where it was ok. This seems to have worked. see photo. I also remembered that in another post about the Pattern from Measurements that the seat dimension as 3/8" larger than it should have been and clearly this 5/8 out of the CB has cleared that away. The 5/8 Â at the waist will also work for my sway back which wasnt really accommodated in the measurements on the Pattern. So looking all good. Thanks for joining in with me on this discussion
Ken
Ok I might try the side seam first and see what it does. then if that doesnt work put it back and try the shoulder seam
Jeroen, I have just got my wife to pin out where the creases are and they are about 1/4" each side and stopping at the scye line. out of interest why wouldnt i just take that 1/4" out of the Side Body to Back seam?
Ok Jeroen I'll give that a go before I try the "Defects and Remedies" solution.
It has occurred to me that the measurements i took on the Perkins device for the shoulder angle would be wrong if i alter at the shoulder point and i am not sure why that would be the case. Coming from and architectural background, not using a measurement I have taken seems all wrong 😆
Try shortening the Back shoulders at the shoulder point. Could be your back shoulder is pushing down. Try 1/2" at first both left and right and beware of changes in the front.
Ok a further update. This is like a day by day diary 😆
I have taken in the centre back between the scye/chest line and the line parallel to the vent top below the seat. About a 1/2"midway between the waist and the scye/chest line and blended it in both ends - you can see in the photo the shadow of the inlay. However i still seem to have these diagonal creases and a resonable amount of fabric particularly on the left side. I have had another look at Phillip Dellafera's "Defects and Remedies" i got from Rory's Book Store. There is no specific case for what i have and the closest is "Diagonal creases at back of scye" Should i do this alteration??
Update on this. I have finished the seams and fitted the shoulder pads in. I think the centre back seam at the neck was causing a lot of the problem so i pulled apart the seam in the inlay/seam allowance at the neck and this seems to have released a lot. The remaining creases seem to be because of my right protruding shoulder blade. I think I will have to stretch in this area unless others have better ideas. Also i think i have to nip out the centre back at the waist line as i have a sway back and it seems to be bagging in that location. Any comments on all of this would be appreciated. I intend to get this pattern as right as i can before making my next coat.