Hi Rory and HTAers
I am doing a pattern and toile based on my dimensions (see another post to come). On the pattern point 24 to 22 is noted to be "apply back shoulder width 12-14" To me that means that I measure 12 to 14 in my case 6 3/8" and use the same measurement from point 22 until it crosses the line out from point 23 to give me 24. This means that the front seam and the back seam are the same length at 6 3/8".
However, when i get to Episode 15 in the Coat video we remark the shoulder seams such that we measure the forepart shoulder seam length (12-14 on the pattern) and remark the back shoulder seam (24 to 22 on the pattern) to be this forepart dimension plus 3/4"to give some easy to the back shoulder. The extra coming out at the arm inlay.
Should the pattern 24 to 22 be 12 to 14 plus 3/4" to match the making process?
Cheers
Ken
Great Jeroen - as ever you are spot on. When you measure down 3/8" off the seam line the back gains 1/4" or so on the forepart. Thus, as David says you take off the extra 3/8" that will give you the 3/4" . I'll amend my Draft Instructions to say point 24 to 22 "As apply back shoulder width 12-14 minus 3/8"
Thanks to you both
Ken
Looking at my latest (metric) copy, it seems to be exactly the opposite: "24 - 22 apply back shoulder width pt12 - pt14 less 1cm" (ie 3/8") Older versions do not subtract the 3/8", as far as I see in my versions of the book. In the video (Ep1 Drafting, ~ 10 minute mark) Rory says "... - less 3/8s of an inch" In Ep15 he measures at 3/8" down from the neck- and shoulderpoints on the forepart and comes out at ~ 6 1/4". Rory then adds his 3/4" - BUT: As the notes say: It should AT LEAST be 3/8" in fullness, but AT MOST 3/4" - AND measured 3/8" below the neck- and shoulderpoints of the back parts. This depends very much on the kind of cloth you're using - Frescos (high twist fabrics) will not be as easy to take fullness as "standard" woollen cloths or - for instance- tweeds. Also, the shape of the shoulders need te taken into account. So the 3/4 isn't a must. In Ep15 he only adds a bit of width to the back shoulder as he says it's a bit on the "shy"side, by the looks of it, it's somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4".
If you look at the armhole and neck curves, it is crucial to measure 3/8" below the neck and shoulder points: The armhole curve of the fore part makes your measurement equal or even slightly smaller than the core measurement of 12-14 in the draft. Contrary to that, the armhole curve of the back part makes the measurement an 3/8" below neck and shoulder points ****** than the core measurement of 22-24, even more so, when 3/8" is subtracted - as being shown on later versions and the video.
Overall: Difference between the length of your shoulder seam on fore and back part should be somewhere between 3/8" and 3/4". Look at the actual shoulders, check your measurements and then decide if adjustments are needed. But again: Measure at 3/8" below the neck- and shoulder points and not at the seams themselves!
Thanks David,
Very interesting. I'll wait for Rory to comment
Cheers
Ken
I have the metric version of the book, so I cannot say wether the description in the imperial version is flawed or not. In my version point 22-24 is "apply back shoulder width pt12 - pt14 less 1cm" (1cm = 3/8"). This is what it should be according to the video series too. The 3/4" of fullness I can only guess is because he realized the cloth could take more than 3/8" fullness? I just looked at the draft in the "Notes" section of the blog, and you are right, that description seems to be incorrect.
Hi All
Can i get a comment on this please. I think the Coat draft description of 24-22 is incorrect and should be front shoulder width 12-14 plus 3/4". Is this correct as i am about to make the change on the first fitting
Thanks
Ken