Watching you videos is a great joy. They have been answering many of my long held questions after over 60 years of sewing. But one thing has me curious.
I have been wondering why the upper collar is turned in between the canvas and the melton on the long edge, But not the ends? On photos and in books I have seen called bespoke Seville Row tailoring like yours the ends of the jacket collar are folded back over the melton and hand stitched like you teach. Not trimmed more and tucked in between the melton and canvas on the ends like the long edge is.
I am thinking this is to make the coat look to be a truly hand crafted garment and not manufactured?
Or is it tradition (which I truly appreciate)
Or maybe some structural reason I can not see?
I have seen some Asian tailors tuck in and call themselves bespoke. But by the other shortcuts I see them take I can see the difference between them and the amazing work I have watched you do.