hi i had a question on pocket darts.
What is the function of pocket dart in modern pattern drafting? i was looking through old pattern making books and they only had side body dart and fore part dart. And why has it risen in popularity today?
thanks
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Yeah, there was a whole look based around the sac coat style, which had no front dart.
Before the breast dart they would press shape into the chest. But the pressed shape didn't always last. The purpose of the dart is to put in lasting shape. Sewing in the shape works. The reason why they didn't put it in sooner was for a clean front. Sewing, a seam, mars the coats appearance. Shoulder seam were out of sight behind the shoulder. Pocket seams were okay because pockets have function. Some American coats were baggy, no need for a breast dart. Some Italians put the breast dart clear down to the hem, which can be useful sometimes.
Styles change over time. The chest dart in the pocket creates shape for the abdominal region and chest shape.