I am still pondering the alterations I need to make to my jacket to get the fit the best I can.
I have done a fitting with my University tutors who are not tailors but are there in person to look at the jacket on and pin things. I've also been on a call with another tailor who has given me some advice but I'm still struggling with how to resolve the issues practically.
I have let out the sleeves 1/2" using the under sleeve inlay at the top and also moved the shoulder seam 1/2" forward on the sleeve side of the seam, tapering this back out towards the neck (which i think is what @Rory Duffy meant!)
Before I worked this out we had pinned out some of the excess length in the nape to waist above the rent and my tutor suggested re-cutting the back shorter.
However, the tailor I spoke to on the phone mentioned that the excess length would need to be taken out of the back neck not at the waist. She also suggested taking some out of the side seams from the armhole down to the waist then letting the waist out as much as possible.
I'm not sure how this is done though.
I hadn't moved the shoulder seams at this point which might lift the jacket and remove some of the length?
I don't think the vents sit far enough around the side of the jacket so I'm going to let them out as much as I can.
I have also let the top back neck out about 1/2", 2 1/2" down the centre back seam and then tapering off which I'm hoping will get rid of some of the tightness around there. The tailor I spoke to on the phone also suggested lengthening the under collar and adding more ease around the shoulder seams when tacking this in so it doesn't sit as tight around the neck?
I'm hoping to figure out the necessary alterations to the back and then put it back together for a second fitting with the adjusted shoulders, vents and sleeves.