I bought the coat trimmings package from Dugdales and it arrived with 15 cm of collar canvas marked T5012. It was fairly fine weave canvas which I used for my first coat whilst following the videos. I then bought 1 metre of the same number canvas from Dugdales, but when it arrived it was a coarse weave and alot stiffer, but labelled "T5012 Linen Drab" piece number 68970. I queried this with Matt Booth at Dugdales. He established that what I had been sent with my trimmings package was actually not T5012, but T5298 piece number 61666, which is shown as "Linen Shrunk Duck, Drab" on the website. It is clear that a mistake has been made by Dugdales, but I am still not sure which canvas I should be using.
Perhaps Rory can verify which I should be using for the Super 140 coat project shown in the video. Is it the heavy weave T5012, or the lighter weave T5298, or something completely different.
Others of you that have also bought the coat trimmings package might want to check the label to see what you were sent.
That drab linen is used for the undersides of brace top trousers. Sent it back you will never need as much if you had 50 more years in the trade
I think they only have one type of linen collar canvas.
Rory, I probably haven't explained this very well. The 15 cm of "collar canvas" that came with the coat package was labelled T5012, but it was actually T5298, so from your last comment it is not suitable for the coat that I am making. The 1 metre that I subsequently ordered is labelled T5012. The website shows this as one of three collar canvasses. T5012 is only avialbale in drab, but T5013 is available in drab or in white. All are labelled as 'Linen Collar canvas'. The website does not indicate the difference between T5012 and T5013, or indiate what garments they should be used for. I am still unsure whther the T5012 is the correct collare canvas for the coat that I am making, or should it have been T5013? Do you know for what the two collar canvasses are best used for? What do you order for the suit coats that you make? It appears that the collar that I made with the T5298 is wrong, so I will have to do that step again, but I only want to do it with the correct material.
I will DM you on instagram with photos of the two fabrics that I have.
Some pictures of my progress with this project can be seen on my Instagram 'renrenoir'.
See @renrenoir on Instagram for pictures of my progress.
I don’t know the numbers. Maybe we should throw this out into the forum. What is the code that comes on the collar canvas? Can someone else check this out for us please?
I have answered that Rory, it is T5012, or at least that was the code that was on the 15 cm that I was sent in the coat package.
Not sure now what you’re asking me. That the collar canvas I use for all coats and overcoats. Some tailors like it stiffer and some softer.
I expect that you would use a stiffer canvas for an overcoat and a lighter canvas for a suit. The problem is that I don't know whether ther T5012 is heavier or lighter than the T5013. There is no way of telling from what is shown in the description on the Dugdale website. The T5012 that I received is far more stiffer and coarser weave than the T5298, but since we have now established that the T5298 is not meant for collars there is little point in comparing the two. I was hoping that you would know which we should be using, especially if you had ordered some for the suits that you make. Failing that, I am interested to know what others have been sent, but if Dugdale have made a batch of these coat packages then it is quite likely that others will also have been sent the wrong material in their package without relaising it.
Hi Rennie, I can answer this for you. I have the canvas sample book here with me. As far as I can tell there is not much difference between T5012 and T5013, it just comes in a different width as far as I can tell. We use T5012 as collar canvas, I'll attach a photo so you can compare it to the canvasses you have. T5298 is indeed a much finer and softer weave than T5012. Traditionally we use the coarser and stiffer canvas for collars. Don't worry too much about it though, it does soften up a lot when you handle it and pad stitch it. Nothing off course forbids you to use the other finer weave if you prefer. It might work just fine with the cloth you are using. Hope this helps, good luck!