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Trouser draft

Hi Rory

I have started the draft of the trousers and I notice that you have an additional step in the video that is not shown on the drafting notes. Point 23 is shown on the notes as sitting on the top of the waistband line, but in the video you lower that by the same distance as between 24 and 25. So am I right in thinking that the line 23(modified)-25 lies parallel to 23-24 as shown below for the back part draft?

13 comments

13 Comments

john philips

Dec 04, 2023

Nice

jeremymarkbarnett

Mar 11, 2021

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Hi Rory

I have completed my trouser draft. I decided to use a program to create it from your formula instead of drafting by hand as it has meant that I can dip into it at any time I get a spare moment from work, without having to set up my work table. I appreciate that this might be sacrilege to purists of the handcraft approach - so apologies in advance - I'm just trying to get these garments made to the best of my ability in the spare time I have at the moment!

Before I start striking the pattern could you (and/or any other members) have a glance over this to see if there are any obvious errors in construction/interpretation of the formula. In particular I am concerned that the formula only has a value for Waist (which I assume is taken through the line level with the belly button) but since the rise I have chosen is lower than that there is a different value for the waist measurement at this point. This is probably an obvious question but should I be using the waist measurement at the intended waistband level in the formula rather than the measurement at belly button height?

Jeroen Keerl

Mar 13, 2021

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Replying to

@jeremymarkbarnett Hi,you underestimate the power of the freesewing platform 😁 They too use parametric design: Here's a small tutorial on the creation of a "bib pattern".

https://freesewing.dev/tutorials/pattern-design/ Apart from that. Wahid, Simon and Theo(dore) have quite a few (advanced) options, which can be tweaked. So you can even go into the nitty gritty detail (after the first fitting for instance) and change minimal things. One thing that is lacking, otoh, is the possibility to take asymmetrical issues into account (dropped shoulder, for instance). I might actually drop that with the team there 🤔

jeremymarkbarnett

Mar 13, 2021

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Replying to

@Jeroen Keerl Hi. Had a quick look at the pattern design tutorial and it seems to work in a mathematical / geometric / co-ordinate based construction method rather than an intuitive 'draw like you would on paper' kind of method.

In Valentina, apart from entering your key measurements on which the formula requires, there is virtually no writing involved (aside from entering the length of a line etc). Again, maybe I have misunderstood, but I think you'll be amazed at how easy it is to construct a draft by clicking and dragging your mouse.

I have tried to capture a short screen session here to show how versatile this program is and how you can shape curves easily:

Rory Duffy

Dec 18, 2023

Replying to

Very late to this party. But there's too much hip shape. All these questions will be answered in the next few weeks. Bear with me.

Rory Duffy

Mar 10, 2021

Yep, that step is missing from the notes.

jeremymarkbarnett

Mar 10, 2021

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Replying to

@Rory Duffy thanks for clarifying. 👍🏼

jeremymarkbarnett

Mar 07, 2021

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Hi Rory

Further to the above, can I clarify that the dart on the front is in effect removed by taking the dart width from the waistline seam at the top of the front piece leaving the shaping to continue on the trouser facing piece.