The Perkins Device

Hi All,

I have been meaning to do a post about this device for a while. Our new video on measuring features the Perkins device and I strongly recommend anyone who wants to bring their bespoke suits to market to seriously consider the investment. It something you won’t regret.

The Perkins device can take direct measurements from the body which are otherwise either difficult to take or are done using rock of eye, such as posture and shoulder slope.

It can also measure for low shoulders, the rise and forearm length.

These tools take time to put together, Philip makes each one himself in his workshop. Deliver time will depend upon demand and availability of raw materials, you should get an ETA at the time you order them.

When I told Philip I was featuring his devices on my forum he decided to put together some inventory to speed up the turnaround time.

Back in 2012 when I realised my first video series The Making of a Coat, an industry colleague told me about these devices. I snapped a set up straight away and have used it at every consultation since. They really do help to minimise alterations and assist greatly at the pattern drafting stage.

Its a one off investment of about $300 that will pay you back every time you use it.

You can contact Philip by phone, email and via his website.

Philip Perkins

00 1 (210) 684-6233

00 1 (210) 364-8442

perkins10tools@gmail.com

perkinstailoringinstruments.com OR perkinsdevices.com

9 comments

9 Comments

Ken Woodman

Nov 08, 2024

So to be clear if the shoulder angel is 2 1/4" on the tool then from the point 22 you measure down 2 1/4" to get point 23 and take that out to pt 24 giving you the back shoulder angle between pt 22 and 24?

Do you have to change Pt 14?? ie pt 12 to pt 13 also??

On Rory's draft pt 22 to pt 23 is 2 1/2" but pt 12 to pt 13 is 2 3/4" if the Perkins tool says 2 1/4" which is for the Back shoulder angle should I always take off 1/4" for the front shoulder angle too ie 2 1/2"

Also does any one have an idea about the measurements on the Incline Device, See the top photo. the measurements go from 1" to 5" I see that they relate to the posture but I dont know what that means when drafting the pattern?

Cheers

Ken

Rory Duffy

Nov 15, 2024

Replying to

The perkins shoulder device measures the front shoulder angle. Add 1/2" to that to get the back shoulder angle.

Apply the front shoulder angle between pt22- 23.

Apply the back shoulder angle between pt12-13.

Rory Duffy

Nov 15, 2024

Replying to

As for the incline device, I'm afraid it's not so straightforward.

Back development plays a huge part in posture.

I have successfully added the incline as a direct measure into the draft, as explained in the video series and have gotten satisfactory results.

But for my own back it doesn't work out the same. My posture is 3 1/4" on the perkins but simply adding 1/4" suppression at pt0 gives me sufficient back balance.

I have also found that on some erect figures shortening the back balance by 1" is generally sufficient.

This is an ongoing project, I am trying to map out the best approach to back balance, rather than relying on my own intuition.

We have all heard the term 'rock of eye'. This is the tailors intuition based on their own experiences. It is something that I have been trying to develop into a system so that others can pick up on my experience without having to put in all the ground work.

ian_fshr

Mar 03, 2022

Thank you.

Rory Duffy

Mar 03, 2022

The front shoulder angle is a plan, an angle silhouetted against the back drop. The back shoulder angle is a 3D shape and is determined by posture and blades. So if the shoulder angle is read as 2 1/4" that's applied to pt23 on the draft. Thats the short answer.

ian_fshr

Feb 24, 2022

Apologies if this seems a daft question but, never having used one, how are the readings from a Perkins shoulder slope measuring device transferred to a pattern draft? If the reading is, say, 2 1/4" where is that applied?