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When do I need to use a waxed cotton thread in the making of the coat?
in addition to what is already said: when you are padding the canvas, a waxed cotton slights easier therough the layers of canvas, chest canvans and Domette and even more layers depending how elaborate your consturction is. When I worked with a German tailor we used silk thread for the padding as it is smoother than cotton fiberes by nature. Concerning the price highrer price of silk thread I think it doesn't really matters given the high quallity garment you aim to make.
Waxing a silk buttonhole twist is kind of tricky. By waxing the colour can change to a darker tone and it won't match anymore with the cloth. Further it looses part of its shine/gloss that you also do not want. Alternative, you can just iron the silk theard and it will not curl/tangle/snarl anymore. Think about that: befor you lay your pattern on the colth you iron it in order to let the fibers relax again after roling/folding on colth boards. By ironing the cloth 'shrinks' will say the fibers contract to their natural condition. The same happens when you iron the thread which is highly under tension because of the twining onto a bobbin.
In one of the videos Rory also say to pull the thread three four times between your hands and let it go. It releases the tension the the thread, too
thank you for clearing my doubts!
Different people have different preferences, but in the past, I've only read or seen people using waxed thread for finishing: on hems and for buttonholes. Instead of silk for pick stitching, some people use waxed silamide thread, but I think I'd rather use silk.
Personally, I only use cotton for basting and some internal stitching (e.g. cross-stitching facing seam to canvas, securing shoulder pads, and so forth). I prefer Gutermann polyester sew-all thread for machine and most hand sewing when a seam is permanent. Silk is only used for visible stitching (e.g. buttonholes/bar tacks) because it's so expensive.
As Kunsthandwerk said, the wax is generally only used to prevent the thread from snarling (and to make it stronger). I wax all thread when I am hand sewing, because otherwise the tangles are unavoidable and extremely irritating.
it´will help me a lot
Waxing the thread makes it stronger and keeps it from tangling.